torque arm and traction questions
#1
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torque arm and traction questions
I've got the hose mod out back, and one coil cut off the front springs...
do i need an adjustable TA still? What are the pro's and cons of the shorter TA's vs. the longer ones? Which is more streetable?
Also i daily drive my car, yet i really want good traction..like id really like to cut a 1.5 60' on 315 width nitto's (possible?)
What are the best mods that will get me there?
thanks!
do i need an adjustable TA still? What are the pro's and cons of the shorter TA's vs. the longer ones? Which is more streetable?
Also i daily drive my car, yet i really want good traction..like id really like to cut a 1.5 60' on 315 width nitto's (possible?)
What are the best mods that will get me there?
thanks!
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The longer arms are better for the street. The best change is to get the arm mount off of the trans. You do this by getting a relocation mount.
I would remove the front sway bar, get some adjustable shocks like strange, Qa1, or Affcos. This should fix the front. If you can get some lite wheels and skinnees, that would also help.
On the rear do the control arms adjustable are best,some rear adjustable shocks, an air bag on the pass side spring and a torque arm again adjustable and finally and adjustable pan hard bar. This will allow you to center the rear housing side to side and fore to aft. This allows the car to launch straight and track better down the track. Leave the stock rear anti sway bar.
The shorter arms with control arm relocation brackets will help hook the car better but daily driving will suffer. It also requires welding and fibrication to install them. The first package is all bolt on.
I would remove the front sway bar, get some adjustable shocks like strange, Qa1, or Affcos. This should fix the front. If you can get some lite wheels and skinnees, that would also help.
On the rear do the control arms adjustable are best,some rear adjustable shocks, an air bag on the pass side spring and a torque arm again adjustable and finally and adjustable pan hard bar. This will allow you to center the rear housing side to side and fore to aft. This allows the car to launch straight and track better down the track. Leave the stock rear anti sway bar.
The shorter arms with control arm relocation brackets will help hook the car better but daily driving will suffer. It also requires welding and fibrication to install them. The first package is all bolt on.
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The longer arms are better for the street. The best change is to get the arm mount off of the trans. You do this by getting a relocation mount.
I would remove the front sway bar, get some adjustable shocks like strange, Qa1, or Affcos. This should fix the front. If you can get some lite wheels and skinnees, that would also help.
On the rear do the control arms adjustable are best,some rear adjustable shocks, an air bag on the pass side spring and a torque arm again adjustable and finally and adjustable pan hard bar. This will allow you to center the rear housing side to side and fore to aft. This allows the car to launch straight and track better down the track. Leave the stock rear anti sway bar.
The shorter arms with control arm relocation brackets will help hook the car better but daily driving will suffer. It also requires welding and fibrication to install them. The first package is all bolt on.
I would remove the front sway bar, get some adjustable shocks like strange, Qa1, or Affcos. This should fix the front. If you can get some lite wheels and skinnees, that would also help.
On the rear do the control arms adjustable are best,some rear adjustable shocks, an air bag on the pass side spring and a torque arm again adjustable and finally and adjustable pan hard bar. This will allow you to center the rear housing side to side and fore to aft. This allows the car to launch straight and track better down the track. Leave the stock rear anti sway bar.
The shorter arms with control arm relocation brackets will help hook the car better but daily driving will suffer. It also requires welding and fibrication to install them. The first package is all bolt on.
a few more questions though...will i still need a relocation mount if i do an aftermarket TA? or do aftermarket one's already do that? what about SFC's? are they more for handling?
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I used to have massive wheel hop until I got single adjustable lower control arms. No LCA brackets and stock suspension.
Sucker hooks good now but thats with MT ET Streets.
Sucker hooks good now but thats with MT ET Streets.
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if you get the shorter torque arms, they mount to the body. so its not hooked up to the trans any more.
but full length TAs still use the stock mounting location.
i just put a BMR relocation bracket on...pretty happy with it. still saving for the adj TA though
but full length TAs still use the stock mounting location.
i just put a BMR relocation bracket on...pretty happy with it. still saving for the adj TA though
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I've got the hose mod out back, and one coil cut off the front springs...
do i need an adjustable TA still? What are the pro's and cons of the shorter TA's vs. the longer ones? Which is more streetable?
Also i daily drive my car, yet i really want good traction..like id really like to cut a 1.5 60' on 315 width nitto's (possible?)
What are the best mods that will get me there?
thanks!
do i need an adjustable TA still? What are the pro's and cons of the shorter TA's vs. the longer ones? Which is more streetable?
Also i daily drive my car, yet i really want good traction..like id really like to cut a 1.5 60' on 315 width nitto's (possible?)
What are the best mods that will get me there?
thanks!
If you want to give me a call here at the office I can go over all of the pros and cons of each style system