Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors

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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 10:08 PM
  #1  
cbr600rx7's Avatar
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Default Where to start.

I have no clue where i should start. I fill like the TA should be hooking a lot better then she does at the track on 315 DR's. The car also fills like it wants to pull a little bit to the right during launch. Right now the suspension is just about stock other then springs. So my question is where should i go from here to help her get some more bite off the line?
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 10:58 PM
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Well, what kind of springs do you have? Lowering springs are not condusive to drag racing.

Also, there's a lot of things you can get to help straight line traction. Lower control arms, relocation brackets for those LCA's, a torque arm, a TA relocation bracket (to get the load off of the transmission), subframe connectors can help transfer weight on a drag car....etc.....there's a lot of different things you can do.

I would recommend:
LCA's
TA
RB's for the LCA's and TA
maybe SFC's?

depending on your budget and what kind of an emphasis you put on ride, shocks are a good idea too. If you just want it for launching, i've heard the stock shocks transfer weight well, but ride can be greatly improved

It would help to know your springs like I said, what you do with the car (DD, weekend warrior, full out drag racer, etc.), and your budget.
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 07:02 AM
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Hello
Like mentioned above. I would highly suggest going with a set of Lower control arms and a set of relocation brackets (seeing how the car is lowered...allows you to adjust the control arm to the correct position). And a set of SFC's to not only help with weight transfer they also help keep the vehicle solid and dimples off of the rear end. And last...A adjustable torque arm to allow you to set the pinion angle in the rear end and also eliminate the flimsy OEM Arm. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...eset6tfa3b3c05

If you have any other questions feel free to ask! I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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I'm in the same boat as the OP except I'm completely stock suspension wise on an 01 WS6 A4. I have the mods in my sig. I will be getting the LCA's with RB's and was also looking at Torque arms and subframe connectors. Which is a better Torque arm? Trans mount or tunnel mount? Also for the SFC's, which is better and what is the performance difference? 3-bolt or tubular? This is primarily a weekend car that I want to bring to the strip.
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 09:33 AM
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weekday bumb. hopefully UMI or BMR will spot this.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by willizm
I'm in the same boat as the OP except I'm completely stock suspension wise on an 01 WS6 A4. I have the mods in my sig. I will be getting the LCA's with RB's and was also looking at Torque arms and subframe connectors. Which is a better Torque arm? Trans mount or tunnel mount? Also for the SFC's, which is better and what is the performance difference? 3-bolt or tubular? This is primarily a weekend car that I want to bring to the strip.
Which is a better Torque arm? Trans mount or tunnel mount?

Being you stated that your car is going to be a weekend car I would recommend using a full length style torque arm with one of our relocation brackets.

There are many benefits to running a relocation bracket-
  • Takes the load from the torque arm and removes it from the tail shaft of the transmission removing the chance of damage to the transmission.
  • Our relocation bracket has multiple mounting positions for the torque arm which will allow you to fine tune the suspension to match your needs.
  • Our relocation bracket is compatible with all after market torque arms as well as your factory stamped steel torque arm.
The listings for our relocation brackets can be found HERE

For the SFC's, which is better and what is the performance difference?

As far as subframe connectors go I always have the motto do it once.

Subframe connectors are welded into multiple points on the car and once installed are next to impossible to remove. My recommendation would be for a set of boxed weld-in subframes. The boxed tubing resists torsenial twist much more then a tubular and the there is no added ground clearance issues with them.

The listing for the boxed subframes can be found HERE
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