weld in sfc?
post asking about the wolfe weld in SFC, and somone brings up UMI bolt in. The wolfes are not even compairable to any bolt in, or even "3 point".
Wolfes-
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=805 $250
harder install, not a simple bolt in and weld deal.
cut out the floor sections weld them in.
not easy to remove.
adds a lot of strength to the car, really ties in the front to rear frame rails areas, and the rear LCA mount.
Great for adding a roll bar or roll cage later, can't think of a better way to do it. The hoop, and door, front down bar weld directly ON the SFC.
Light weight, 22#s plus removes a few pounds of stock metal.
wolfe has the DRAG RADIAL 1/8 & 1/4 MILE RECORD
and gone 6.80's on Stock Suspension (fox bodies)
BMR box and tube
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...d=55&catid=146 140-180
easier install with hand tools and a welder.
don't need to remove the interior from the car
can be removed, not east but more then with a wolfe style (pro and a con)
adds strength
I think the boxed are 25-27#s for the boxed, and 3-4 lighter for the tube.
Box style is stronger for jacking the car up in the middle of them.
tube style tucks up a little better, can't been seen from the side.
Umi, box-tube. read bmr pro/con a copy of them.
bolt in 2 point, easier install,
no were near as strong as weld in.
3 point
adds weight????
not any stronger??
3 must be better the 2?
For ultimate strength, you just can't beat a through-the-floor connector. That being said, what are you building? For street/strip applications and even heavy hitting drag cars, a good 2 point SFC is all that you need. If your building a hardcore track car and don't mind the extra time, labor, and expense required for the install go through-the-floor...On the other hand you can add a few bridge plates from your 2 point connectors over to your rocker panels for practically nothing and gain way more strength than using a 3 point design that attaches to the tunnel area.
