Overkill on a DD?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: San Diego,CA
Overkill on a DD? I was thinking of doing some suspension upgrades and wanted to know what you guys think about this. As of now the car is strictly a DD. I already have Bilsteins, UMI Sway bars, UMI STB, poly/roto lca's and an oca poly/roto PB. Would it be too much to add a n/a torque arm, tunnel brace, TA relocation crossmember and SFCs?
I have the exact set up you have. I havent had my sfc's installed yet but my friend has them in his ws6 and it definitly feels tighter and rattles/squeaks a lot less. So i vote yes on sfcs. A TA and TA relo are a great upgrade. Prevents damage to your trans and helps with launching.
Is your car an M6 or a4? M6 i vote yes on both if its an a4 i think you could live without unless you plan to have a stall or have one already..
Is your car an M6 or a4? M6 i vote yes on both if its an a4 i think you could live without unless you plan to have a stall or have one already..
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: San Diego,CA
That's reassuring, anything that will help get rid of squeaks and rattles is a buy IMO. Its an A4 btw, but I still think I'm going to go with the TA and relo kit if it's better for the trans.
I have the UMI 2 point SFC's and would definately recommend them, made the car noticeable stiffer and plan on doing a full length TA and relo in the near future. As far as overkill thats opinion, I think there worthwhile mods even for a DD
I was thinking of doing some suspension upgrades and wanted to know what you guys think about this. As of now the car is strictly a DD. I already have Bilsteins, UMI Sway bars, UMI STB, poly/roto lca's and an oca poly/roto PB. Would it be too much to add a n/a torque arm, tunnel brace, TA relocation crossmember and SFCs?
I have UMI 2-point SFC's, they definitely transfer more noise, and the do stiffen the chassis. When i jack up one side the other side lifts also, so it does indeed add torsional rigidity. You'll get people who will argue one side or the other about what benefit that is, but it is there. Fourth-Gen Firebird Subframe Connector Install - Getting Connected
STB's do nothing, well covered thoroughly beaten to death topic.
Roto-joint parts are nice, if you want them they won't hurt you. They add some noise.
"a n/a torque arm, tunnel brace, TA relocation crossmember". Are you making lots of power?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: ny
nothing is ever over kill its all opinion. i DD my car and have similar set up(plus what you want to get) except i have konis and bmr's. but i like going to the track so yea its a DD but theres nothing like having a really fun DD. 
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: San Diego,CA
Is the car lowered? Frankly on a DD, the only thing I would do is shocks, which you already have, and the regular maintenance stuff. The rest of the stuff is useless on a DD.
I have UMI 2-point SFC's, they definitely transfer more noise, and the do stiffen the chassis. When i jack up one side the other side lifts also, so it does indeed add torsional rigidity. You'll get people who will argue one side or the other about what benefit that is, but it is there. Fourth-Gen Firebird Subframe Connector Install - Getting Connected
STB's do nothing, well covered thoroughly beaten to death topic.
Roto-joint parts are nice, if you want them they won't hurt you. They add some noise.
"a n/a torque arm, tunnel brace, TA relocation crossmember". Are you making lots of power?
I have UMI 2-point SFC's, they definitely transfer more noise, and the do stiffen the chassis. When i jack up one side the other side lifts also, so it does indeed add torsional rigidity. You'll get people who will argue one side or the other about what benefit that is, but it is there. Fourth-Gen Firebird Subframe Connector Install - Getting Connected
STB's do nothing, well covered thoroughly beaten to death topic.
Roto-joint parts are nice, if you want them they won't hurt you. They add some noise.
"a n/a torque arm, tunnel brace, TA relocation crossmember". Are you making lots of power?
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Hate to get off topic what the hell do you have that puts down 478 at the tires with a stock intake and manifolds? Maybe it drinks from a bottle? Either way if your at those power levels even for a dd I would throw the book at it just to prevent it from breaking or twisting the stock stuff even under " normal" driving whatever that is with a 600hp car...lol
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
I recently installed aftermarket LCAs and trans mount torque arm (UMI) and I can tell you I noticed a huge difference in starting off the line. So much better traction. Mine is also a DD by the way.
Still has the stock intake and no headers
and on a a4, what year is the car? not saying its bs numbers but on a ls1 with stock manifolds,stock ls1 intake,threw an auto is just a lil much, 500 is a huge mark for an ls1, yes more and more people are getting there but it takes one badass setup to get there,
yea i have a hard time believing first of all someone would use a ls1 intake with heads and cam, second of all its running stock manifolds, and third it puts down 478 through an auto with those parts.....
not trying to burst your bubble because you didn't do the work but at least learn a little about the facts before you make statements like that. You don't have 478 with heads/cam and a Ls1 intake pushing the air through stock manifolds and an auto.....
not trying to burst your bubble because you didn't do the work but at least learn a little about the facts before you make statements like that. You don't have 478 with heads/cam and a Ls1 intake pushing the air through stock manifolds and an auto.....
Regardless of your current dyno #'s, go ahead and upgrade the rest of your suspension. At the very least get the SFC's, read up on what they do for our cars, you'll definitely want them afterwards.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: San Diego,CA
Those numbers are off a dyno he showed me when I bought the car. I was even skeptical myself about the power at first but it's enough to leave my buddy in the dust in his 08 GT500 on the street so that's good enough for me. Anyway, that stuff has almost nothing to do with my original question so could we stay on topic here. Thank you to everyone who has given me useful replies so far.
Get the SFC's for sure. The other stuff will probably help out since your car makes decent power. I had only SFC's and nothing else on my car and it made a huge difference. I have lowering springs and all the other goodies now, but the SFC's were a big help when I was still stock.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: San Diego,CA
I'm pretty set on getting the SFC's now. I'll probably go with UMI's 2p SFC's. The only thing I'm still wondering about is whether or not to get a Full length TA by itself, or with the relocation crossmember. As it is I can really feel the car shift down kind of hard when I slow down fast, and I'm assuming with a bigger, stronger TA I would be able to feel it more. Would adding that crossmember fix that since it's taking the pressure off the transmission?
enough to leave my buddy in the dust in his 08 GT500 on the street
I was thinking of doing some suspension upgrades and wanted to know what you guys think about this. As of now the car is strictly a DD. I already have Bilsteins, UMI Sway bars, UMI STB, poly/roto lca's and an oca poly/roto PB. Would it be too much to add a n/a torque arm, tunnel brace, TA relocation crossmember and SFCs?
I had this thread in mind to reply. Sorry for the delay.
Any of this suspension stuff is overkill for a DD but that's the fun of it. It's like a cam upgrade is to an engine, ran fine without it but much more fun with the upgrades!
SFC's are a good way to start building your baseline suspension. They are a foundation for which to build on. Agree as above, STB's have been beaten to death but we sell a TON of them and I'd put one on my car in a heartbeat - if for no other reason than just to have one.
Full length T/A's are a fun upgrade and really make the car feel more responsive. I'd say at least once a month we get a guy buying relocation due to breaking his transmission. Even if you go non-adjustable it's nice to know your expensive trans isn't going to bite the dust.
You can choose a tunnel brace T/A as well if you're more inclined to go straight line racing.
Roto-joints are a great way to get your car working well in the twisties or at the auto-x course as they help the rear end articulate more easily than with poly or rubber. Kind of like a rod end in comfortable clothing.
We can help you pick the correct components in the correct order to meet your goals and budget.
As for HP of your car, if you waxed a Ford that's all that matters.
ramey
