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Bad ball joint?

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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 06:32 PM
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Default Bad ball joint?

Ok so I was looking under my car and I saw the boot of both sides lower ball joints ripped how do I know if the ball joints are bad?

Are the ripped ball joints the indication for replacement? And what are the dangers?
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 07:40 AM
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Lift the car by placing a jack under that a-arm. Grasp your tire at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to "tilt" the wheel in and out. If there's any play, the b/j is bad. If it isn't, you can replace the boot with one made by Energy Suspension.
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Lift the car by placing a jack under that a-arm. Grasp your tire at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to "tilt" the wheel in and out. If there's any play, the b/j is bad. If it isn't, you can replace the boot with one made by Energy Suspension.

Aight thanks man. Ima do that. I didn't know it was so easy to check for a bad ball joint .

To replace the boot do I have take off the ball joint?
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 12:03 PM
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im not sure myself if you need to remove the ball joint to replace the boot, but id suggest if you HAVTA do that, to just replace the ball joint...

its just one of them things you dont take off, and put back on, used.
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 323steel36
Aight thanks man. Ima do that. I didn't know it was so easy to check for a bad ball joint .

To replace the boot do I have take off the ball joint?
No, it isn't necessary to remove the b/j from the a-arm to replace the boot. You do, however, have to disengage the lower part of the spindle from the b/j stud.
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 03:45 PM
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I had a torn boot, just got a new boot filled it with grease and put it on so far so good. Maybe 1 1/2 - 2 years ago really don't remember.
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Lift the car by placing a jack under that a-arm. Grasp your tire at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to "tilt" the wheel in and out. If there's any play, the b/j is bad. If it isn't, you can replace the boot with one made by Energy Suspension.
And how about when I move it up and down and it has play, what does that mean?

I haven't done it, but Ima do it today?
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 11:18 PM
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Ok so I fount out that is not the ball joint, it is the tie rod boot correct the one with the long stick?

Anyways since Ima buy new tires, do you guys think they will change it for me while they align the wheels and install the tire or is it hard to change the boots on these tie rod?
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 11:32 PM
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Yeah that's the outer tie rod/boot. Same test for tie rods. Wiggle the wheel up and down to check the ball joints, side to side for tie rods. Any abnormal play = bad component.

Ripped boot is no big deal, ride em till they go bad. If you're going to take stuff apart just to replace a boot you'd better just replace the part while you're in there, everything is very cheap on the front end, save for the Moog stuff which is top of the line.

They probably won't change the boot for free when aligning the car. For an alignment all they have to do is bust the jam nut loose on the tie rod and turn it to make the proper adjustment. To replace the boot/rod you would need to disconnect the tie rod. It would take you 10 minutes to do it yourself.

Alignments are such a rip off for the amount of work vs. cost. They literally just get the car up on the lift, connect the sensors, bust 1 nut loose and give the tie rod a turn. Tighten the nut and done. I used to do alignments in 15 minutes.
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 93z383
Yeah that's the outer tie rod/boot. Same test for tie rods. Wiggle the wheel up and down to check the ball joints, side to side for tie rods. Any abnormal play = bad component.

Ripped boot is no big deal, ride em till they go bad. If you're going to take stuff apart just to replace a boot you'd better just replace the part while you're in there, everything is very cheap on the front end, save for the Moog stuff which is top of the line.

They probably won't change the boot for free when aligning the car. For an alignment all they have to do is bust the jam nut loose on the tie rod and turn it to make the proper adjustment. To replace the boot/rod you would need to disconnect the tie rod. It would take you 10 minutes to do it yourself.

Alignments are such a rip off for the amount of work vs. cost. They literally just get the car up on the lift, connect the sensors, bust 1 nut loose and give the tie rod a turn. Tighten the nut and done. I used to do alignments in 15 minutes.

Ima be honest my tools are very minimal. If they do not charge too much I will tell them to do it as well. I hope they give me a discount since I am buying tires. I have a feeling this is the reason why my car vibrates badly at 70+ HW speeds. thanks Bro. Now Ima do the test like you told me to check for myself if the tie rods are good. Thanks .
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 12:23 AM
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Are these accurate? Oh by the way thanks ShBox =).
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 01:23 AM
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Dude all you need is a socket wrench lol. To remove the tie rod it's 1 nut and a cotter pin.
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 93z383
Dude all you need is a socket wrench lol. To remove the tie rod it's 1 nut and a cotter pin.
Awesome then I can do this myself =).

Question once I lift up the car and remove the wheel all I have to remove is that pin and nut. Then I replace them with a new set and get an alignment right?
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 323steel36
Awesome then I can do this myself =).

Question once I lift up the car and remove the wheel all I have to remove is that pin and nut. Then I replace them with a new set and get an alignment right?
You'll need to remove the wheels/tires in order to have a little working room. Then remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud, and unscrew the castle nut. Give the spindle a couple of sharp raps with your hammer, right next to where the tie rod stud passes through, and it will hopefully break the tie rod free.

Use an open end or crescent wrench to hold shank of the tie rod, and use the same to break the jamb nut free, then unscrew the tie rod end. it's recommended to use a new jamb nut, and most good rod ends come with a new one. Mark where your current nut is, remove it, and screw on the new one to the same spot, then screw on the tire rod end and tighten every thing up. This should be close enough so you can drive to the alignment shop.
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
You'll need to remove the wheels/tires in order to have a little working room. Then remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud, and unscrew the castle nut. Give the spindle a couple of sharp raps with your hammer, right next to where the tie rod stud passes through, and it will hopefully break the tie rod free.

Use an open end or crescent wrench to hold shank of the tie rod, and use the same to break the jamb nut free, then unscrew the tie rod end. it's recommended to use a new jamb nut, and most good rod ends come with a new one. Mark where your current nut is, remove it, and screw on the new one to the same spot, then screw on the tire rod end and tighten every thing up. This should be close enough so you can drive to the alignment shop.
Awesome man now I feel much more confident . THANKS ALOT .

Im going for it, I wil be putting moog I heard thats the best tie rods you can put.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 323steel36
Awesome man now I feel much more confident . THANKS ALOT .

Im going for it, I wil be putting moog I heard thats the best tie rods you can put.
Yes, go with Moog or don't bother at all!
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Yes, go with Moog or don't bother at all!
True that! There goes my money !
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 323steel36
True that! There goes my money !
Yeah, but at least when you go with Moog, you go once...not this year and then again in 2 years!
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