nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

I don't doubt you at all, do you have the actual numbers by any chance?

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

I swear I had the last report in the glovebox, but I dug through it twice and found nothing. Im tempted to post from memory, but ill screw it up. The bottom line is I tell them the exact thing I said in the previous post...but the most important change is zero toe or the tiniest bit negative...I mean tiny.

With the oe arms you cant get the camber too negative and caster is not huge. Just make sure they get it the same on both sides. KDs are (were) 20k mile tires, if I had a problem it would show...fair warning, the car will handle very differently...much better, but be careful until youre used to it. It will not be nearly so heavy centered.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Here's how I aligned my car, but I am running 315/35/17s all 4 corners. My car trams like a motha, but it handles better than anything I have ever driven

Alignment specs:
________________Camber____Caster____Toe
______Factory:_____+1_______+3______.15
Street/AutoX:__-.5 to -1__+4 to +5___0.0
_______AutoX:____-1.5_____+4 to +5___1/16” Toe Out


I may add a touch of toe out on the next alignment, but everything I own trams on the roads in certain spots. My Yukon is pretty bad in a spot on the way to my parents house, but I have 22s on it with 305/40 tires. My wifes Beetle does the same thing, just not nearly as bad