therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

So I've been trying to track down the cause of the "loose" feeling in the front of my car over bumps, along with how it follows every groove in the road. I replaced the front control arm bushings, which helped slightly but not how I had hoped. I had it aligned afterward and they said they could only get 3 degrees of + caster, which I found odd. The car felt better but still a little unstable so I thought maybe the rack was worn.

Yesterday I couldn't take it anymore so I decided to see if I could figure out why I couldn't get more caster before replacing the rack, was surprised that they couldn't get any more adjustment out of it:


Stuck a prybar in there and shifted it out on both sides:


Now the car still goes dead straight, the wheel doesn't jerk over bumps, and it doesn't follow ruts as bad. Pulling the rear of the control arm does outward increase positive caster, correct? I wonder if it's entirely due to the increase in caster or whatever change happened with the toe that's helping. I just can't believe how much better the car feels with just a blind adjustment, or why they said they could only get 3 degrees when there is plenty of room to move it in either direction. Am I missing something here?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

You've increased the caster, but possibly also increased the toe-out....

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

The alignment shop probably meant that they couldn't get more the +3 caster with keeping the camber within factory specs.
Since you moved the control arm and changed the caster you also changed the camber and toe setting, so you need to get the alignment checked now, and readjusted before you start getting very accelerated tire wear.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

That didn't cross my mind, that they were just unable to get more with the others in line. That's possible. They never gave me the printout so I don't know what the settings ended up being. I know adjusting camber will limit caster to some extent and the other way around. Now toe out will also cause some dartiness too right? So if I just got the toe corrected back to 0 it should theoretically become even more stable in a straight line if I now have toe out?

I gave them these specs:
Camber: -1
Caster: Max (even or +/-.5 to compensate for crown)
Toe: 0

That is what I have run in the past, so that's what I wanted again. I know i screwed up the other settings in the process and I need a new alignment, but maybe I'll just have the toe corrected and live with whatever camber I ended up with now because honestly the car feels way more confident (or at least have caster take priority over camber)

Flubyux2

Toe out didn't increase if it's More stable in a straight line. If anything, it's toe in now.

Keep an eye on the outer tread blocks. If they begin to feather then you'll need to fix that ASAP.

3* of caster is terrible. My other car only gets 6.7* maxed out and that's still not enough. The more, the better. It'll be weighty feelin on center and stable at high speeds. Dynamic camber while turning will be much improved as well. The steering will also return to center faster which is great for u turns and power sliding.