Line Lock issues
Line Lock issues I have the SJM ABS delete and line lock combo. Rebuit calipers, SS brake lines, new pads, new rotors. I took the car to the track on Friday to test it out. When I get onto the line lock, the car doesn't stay planted, it rolls forward a little bit. 
I can feel the car trying to hold still, but no matter how much gas I am giving it, it doesn't hold still, and I can't get a good burnout.
I tried to power brake it once and did basically the same thing. Any ideas what's wrong? The brakes feel fine besides this, I just expected it to hold better in place.
I can feel the car trying to hold still, but no matter how much gas I am giving it, it doesn't hold still, and I can't get a good burnout. I tried to power brake it once and did basically the same thing. Any ideas what's wrong? The brakes feel fine besides this, I just expected it to hold better in place.
Did you pump the brakes twice, push line lock button (while still on the brakes), start the burn out while still on the brakes, release the brakes once the tires have started spinning but maintain holding the line lock button down and that should do it unless your solenoid is not working.
If you try and just start the burn out while only using the line lock to hold the brakes you'll generally roll forward, atleast in my experience.
The only other time I had that happen was when I did a burn out on the street with about 7 cases of beer in the trunk and 4 people in the car... I left about 4 coffee cups worth of rubber on the road, but she did not want to stay planted in one spot...
If you try and just start the burn out while only using the line lock to hold the brakes you'll generally roll forward, atleast in my experience.
The only other time I had that happen was when I did a burn out on the street with about 7 cases of beer in the trunk and 4 people in the car... I left about 4 coffee cups worth of rubber on the road, but she did not want to stay planted in one spot...
No, I just set the line lock (Push the brake pedal all the way down and hold down the momentary button) let go of the brake and got onto the gas. I will try it the other way next time and see if that makes a difference. I hope the soldnoid is good, it's brand new!
you have to push the brake before you push monetary switch for the solenoid, all the solenoid does is close a valve so that it locks fluid that you have pushed through your brake lines into the caliper in place so that it cannot go backwards into the master cylinder once you release the pedal.
If you push the button first and then the brakes you aren't doing anything, there is not enough fluid in the lines between the solenoid and the calipers to hold the car because you closed the valve before you pushed the brake pedal to fill them...
If you push the button first and then the brakes you aren't doing anything, there is not enough fluid in the lines between the solenoid and the calipers to hold the car because you closed the valve before you pushed the brake pedal to fill them...
You can push the brake pedal, push the button, push the brake a second time while still holding the button, the while holding the brake down release the button and then push the button again and hold it. This allows more pressure to be applied to the calipers.
This is the method I had to use when I raced my Buick Grand National.
Good luck.
This is the method I had to use when I raced my Buick Grand National.
Good luck.
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I think many of them do bleed back a little, which is why I have always started the burnout with the brakes still depressed and the moment (fraction of a second) that I'm turning 4-5000rpm spinning the tires I just release the brakes while still holding the button.
Like I said, only time I ever had an issue was when I mentioned...
Like I said, only time I ever had an issue was when I mentioned...
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