Yes, I know this has been covered many a time, but I wanted to get opinions all the same. For reference I have a 2002 Camaro SS. Suspension wise the shocks have been changed, I changed everything to poly, BMR torque arm relocated off the transmission, LCAs, adjustable panhard, and new rack from rackdoctor. I also switched to 18 x 9.5 wheels. So I go to get an alignment without doing the proper research on here

Diagnosis Adjustment
Toe: -1.10 -1.12 -0.07 +0.03
Camber: -0.37 -0.24 -0.15 -0.14

So she drove like hell and pulled to the right. I get home and after researching on here I make sure the Caster is fully out, the driver side Camber was most of the way out and the passenger side was most of the way in. So I move the passenger side out and aside from the steering wheel not being straight the car drove straight. So I take it back in and ask for the Camber to be set around -1.0 and adjust the toe

Diagnosis Adjustment
Toe: +1.64 +1.94 +0.02 -0.04
Camber -1.81 -1.36 -1.77 -1.14

Now she is pulling back to the right. Am I correct that the driver's side Camber is still way to far out and I need to pull it back in? Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated since obviously this shop can't figure it out. Thanks

 

i know the 17" wheels have a tire that's 275/40, fairly wide.
don't know what you are running for a tire on the 18" rim but i assume it's around 275mm width or more being a 18x9.5 rim.
my opinion that kind of width tire needs to ride flat on the ground, having camber of -1.0° is too much. the stock setting I think is +0.5° and this is so that suspension travel which results in negative camber gets you around 0.0° and the tire riding flat while driving. so I would have camber set to not less than 0.0° and not more +0.5°, with the left and right wheel being as equal as possible.

more + caster results in better straight line tracking, the steering wheel is heavy to turn, the wheels return to center on their own more after a turn. less positive caster is the opposite the steering wheel is very easy to turn, the car will keep turning on it's own you have to manually steer back to straight which is not good the car will be squirly. stock caster setting is between +2° to +4°.
they often claim more + caster on the right wheel compensates for road crown, however not all roads have crown so that tends to make the car pull left on flat roads. so i would request equal caster between both front wheels, shooting for +3.5° to +4°.... or as high as possible. generally no car is ever more than +4.5 caster, wanna say you want at least 3.0°.

i forget on toe whether it's positive or negative having the wheels point inward, but you want them pointing inward that will keep the car tracking straight at high speed and on uneven roads.
more inward toe causes understeer and too much causes tire scrubbing and will reduce fuel economy. having no inward tow and going toe outward causes oversteer and can be squirly, the car will want to turn. the amount of inward toe when it's a degree number is very small like 0.03° to 0.06°, the magnitude might very with wheel diameter. but you want even toe in between the left and right, when it's not that will cause the car to pull.
more toe in (with reason) will help keep the car straight.

when you change one setting it affects the others, so that needs to be taken into account and why it's best to have it on a machine that reports all 3 values as you are making adjustments. these values are pretty much universal to all cars, especially rear wheel drive cars.

rear wheel drive cars want more toe in because with the rear wheels pushing the car the front wheels get pushed backwards reducing the amount of toe in while at forward speed. and with more toe in it can help compensate for a worn sloppy steering rack and ball joints that has play. front wheel drive cars want less toe in since those wheels are pulling the car forward and the opposite is happening.

don't overlook a bad front wheel hub even if you can't tell with the car off the ground. if you're going back to an alignment shop for a 2nd and 3rd time and nothing is really being changed and you still have a pull to one side it can very well be a bad front wheel bearing hub assembly.

 

I don't understand how you're getting 4 numbers for the camber and toe settings. There should be ONE setting for the camber, caster, and toe, for EACH side of the car.

For a street driven car, camber should be between "0" and (-).5*. Caster should be between 5 and 5.5*, and should be a little greater on the passenger side, to allow for the crown of the road, and the toe should be (+) .02-.03*. NOTE: a negative or (-) toe reading indicates toe-out.

 

Sorry, when I posted that it didn't space right. The first 2 numbers were when I pulled in and the last 2 were after they made adjustments. I have had the far since new and have done most of my own work, but just started educating myself on alignments. Amazingly enough I had to teach this shop a few things. He told me you couldn't adjust Caster with the factory A arm. Oh well, lesson learned

 

OK, got you.


Anyway, in both sets of settings that you've posted, the toe isn't right. In the first set of settings, I think the camber was good, but in the second set, it pretty negative, for a street car. And in both cases, it seems that whoever is doing the alignments, doesn't understand that the toe most definitely should be the same on both sides, so the car tracks straight.

On your first alignment, the net toe was .04* toe OUT, and in the second alignment, the net toe is zero. Yes, these cars can be a little tedious to align, because you really need the "j-hooks" to set the camber and caster, but toe can be done quite easily, therefore it should be the ONE setting that is correct.....