Rear lower control arms question When are they needed? And what exactly do they do? My rear suspension it mostly stock except comp engineering shocks and adjustable torque arm. I'm upgrading the anti-roll bar to help the car leave more square but besides that there is no issues besides a thud sound over bumps in the return road. Is it worth the money to replace the lower control arms since i'm upgrading to the roll bar? Or is there something else I should look in to? Thanks!! |
Adding the ARB but keeping rubber mounts or even poly mounts is counter productive. This is the most important reason you would switch to a set of LCA. Force will always find the weakest point, rubber and poly in the LCA or PHB will be that next weakest point. For someone interested in drag racing heim will always be more consistent. |
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Originally Posted by TXCatfish
(Post 19464568)
When are they needed? And what exactly do they do? My rear suspension it mostly stock except comp engineering shocks and adjustable torque arm. I'm upgrading the anti-roll bar to help the car leave more square but besides that there is no issues besides a thud sound over bumps in the return road. Is it worth the money to replace the lower control arms since i'm upgrading to the roll bar? Or is there something else I should look in to? Thanks!! ramey |
Looks like ypu have a decent set up working. If i were you the only upgrade i would do is 1le bushings. |
Originally Posted by TXCatfish
(Post 19465224)
http://midwestchassis.com/products/8...ble-adjustable Or these that are more strip than street and meant for drag racing. http://midwestchassis.com/products/8...ace-adjustable Nice thing about our heim joints is we use a teflon lined heim to help reduce noise. |
It's only driven on the track. Just a mild running bracket car. Besides the body roll off the line I don't have any issues hooking or anywhere else down track. I'll check out the links and other info posted. Thanks! |
If it is a dedicated track car, you can't go wrong with rod ends. However, if it sees street time, don't discount Polyurethane. We have customers in the 1.2x range on them. The poly keeps the ride smooth and quiet while still handling a ton of abuse https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1f&oe=58AF375F https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...43&oe=58B7EE7E |
Originally Posted by MidwestChassis2
(Post 19465325)
I would do these, which is our street strip style more so street than strip. http://midwestchassis.com/products/8...ble-adjustable Or these that are more strip than street and meant for drag racing. http://midwestchassis.com/products/8...ace-adjustable Nice thing about our heim joints is we use a teflon lined heim to help reduce noise. |
Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
(Post 19466587)
Whats the difference in those two arms? And how come no aluminum option on the website? The other is more street/strip designed and what one would choose for performance based and comes powder coated in the option of black or red. As for our aluminum lower control arms we have discussed this a few times if we want to put them on the web site for general public to purchase however we feel it may still be best if we can discuss the option with customers first. However all our LCAPHB receive the same teflon lined heim joints, we use these because they reduce noise and a good quality heim joint will out last anything and will always give you a consistent launch that you will not get from a rubber or poly mounted suspension items. |
Which ones are rod ends? Is that another name for lca's? And another dumb question will I see a difference in et/mph moving from stock control arms to aftermarket control arms? Just want to make sure I'm not wasting money when the only problem i'm trying to correct is the body roll. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by TXCatfish
(Post 19467023)
Which ones are rod ends? Is that another name for lca's? And another dumb question will I see a difference in et/mph moving from stock control arms to aftermarket control arms? Just want to make sure I'm not wasting money when the only problem i'm trying to correct is the body roll. Thanks! The best way to correct body roll is with a good anti roll bar. Midwest Chassis Anti Roll Bar link. Though once you put on an ARB it will find the next "softest" spot and push through it, that usually means rubber or poly suspension items. There is a reason you see drag cars with heim joints and it isn't because of a selling point. It is simply THE BEST option for suspension performance. |
Originally Posted by TXCatfish
(Post 19467023)
Which ones are rod ends? Is that another name for lca's? And another dumb question will I see a difference in et/mph moving from stock control arms to aftermarket control arms? Just want to make sure I'm not wasting money when the only problem i'm trying to correct is the body roll. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by TXCatfish
(Post 19467023)
Which ones are rod ends? Is that another name for lca's? And another dumb question will I see a difference in et/mph moving from stock control arms to aftermarket control arms? Just want to make sure I'm not wasting money when the only problem i'm trying to correct is the body roll. Thanks! Will you see improvements in ET/mph? That's a tough one to call. Lower control arms + lower control arm relocation brackets should give you a better 60' if you had trouble coming off the line, but you mentioned the only thing you're trying to correct is body roll and you're fine coming off the line. You could always install the ARB and then if you're not satisfied with that, try out an aftermarket pair of lower control arms |
Thanks guys! Exactly what I was looking for!! |
1 Attachment(s) These showed up yesterday, aluminum lowers from MWC. The great part is I'm selling my used BMRs for about what these cost, which means = free upgrade. Attachment 593606 |
Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
(Post 19468076)
These showed up yesterday, aluminum lowers from MWC. The great part is I'm selling my used BMRs for about what these cost, which means = free upgrade. http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...swc1vqtmg.jpeg |
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