Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors

Rear lower control arms question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-28-2016, 04:40 PM
  #1  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
 
TXCatfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Rear lower control arms question

When are they needed? And what exactly do they do?

My rear suspension it mostly stock except comp engineering shocks and adjustable torque arm. I'm upgrading the anti-roll bar to help the car leave more square but besides that there is no issues besides a thud sound over bumps in the return road.

Is it worth the money to replace the lower control arms since i'm upgrading to the roll bar? Or is there something else I should look in to?

Thanks!!
Old 11-29-2016, 09:12 AM
  #2  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
MidwestChassis2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,504
Received 38 Likes on 37 Posts
Default

Adding the ARB but keeping rubber mounts or even poly mounts is counter productive. This is the most important reason you would switch to a set of LCA.

Force will always find the weakest point, rubber and poly in the LCA or PHB will be that next weakest point.

For someone interested in drag racing heim will always be more consistent.
Old 11-29-2016, 10:06 AM
  #3  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
 
TXCatfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Is this the one you recommend?

http://midwestchassis.com/products/8...cle-adjustable
Old 11-29-2016, 11:38 AM
  #4  
Banned
 
UMI Tech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 420
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by TXCatfish
When are they needed? And what exactly do they do?

My rear suspension it mostly stock except comp engineering shocks and adjustable torque arm. I'm upgrading the anti-roll bar to help the car leave more square but besides that there is no issues besides a thud sound over bumps in the return road.

Is it worth the money to replace the lower control arms since i'm upgrading to the roll bar? Or is there something else I should look in to?

Thanks!!
For a 1.45 60 ft and a dedicated drag car, we also recommend double rod end arms. They can get a little bit noisy on highway use but for fast cars it's worth the strength and performance.

ramey
Old 11-29-2016, 11:41 AM
  #5  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
 
HioSSilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 5,927
Received 413 Likes on 331 Posts

Default

Looks like ypu have a decent set up working. If i were you the only upgrade i would do is 1le bushings.
Old 11-29-2016, 11:47 AM
  #6  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
MidwestChassis2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,504
Received 38 Likes on 37 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TXCatfish
I would do these, which is our street strip style more so street than strip.
http://midwestchassis.com/products/8...ble-adjustable

Or these that are more strip than street and meant for drag racing.
http://midwestchassis.com/products/8...ace-adjustable

Nice thing about our heim joints is we use a teflon lined heim to help reduce noise.
Old 11-29-2016, 12:09 PM
  #7  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
 
TXCatfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

It's only driven on the track. Just a mild running bracket car. Besides the body roll off the line I don't have any issues hooking or anywhere else down track.

I'll check out the links and other info posted. Thanks!
Old 11-30-2016, 04:05 PM
  #8  
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (40)
 
BMR Sales2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 3,451
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes on 16 Posts

Default

If it is a dedicated track car, you can't go wrong with rod ends. However, if it sees street time, don't discount Polyurethane. We have customers in the 1.2x range on them. The poly keeps the ride smooth and quiet while still handling a ton of abuse



__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302


Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Old 11-30-2016, 06:42 PM
  #9  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
 
01ssreda4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,240
Likes: 0
Received 79 Likes on 70 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by MidwestChassis2
I would do these, which is our street strip style more so street than strip.
http://midwestchassis.com/products/8...ble-adjustable

Or these that are more strip than street and meant for drag racing.
http://midwestchassis.com/products/8...ace-adjustable

Nice thing about our heim joints is we use a teflon lined heim to help reduce noise.
Whats the difference in those two arms? And how come no aluminum option on the website?
Old 12-01-2016, 08:42 AM
  #10  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
MidwestChassis2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,504
Received 38 Likes on 37 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Whats the difference in those two arms? And how come no aluminum option on the website?
One is a black oxide finish and more for your street car replacement.

The other is more street/strip designed and what one would choose for performance based and comes powder coated in the option of black or red.

As for our aluminum lower control arms we have discussed this a few times if we want to put them on the web site for general public to purchase however we feel it may still be best if we can discuss the option with customers first.

However all our LCAPHB receive the same teflon lined heim joints, we use these because they reduce noise and a good quality heim joint will out last anything and will always give you a consistent launch that you will not get from a rubber or poly mounted suspension items.
Old 12-01-2016, 08:54 AM
  #11  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
 
TXCatfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Which ones are rod ends? Is that another name for lca's? And another dumb question will I see a difference in et/mph moving from stock control arms to aftermarket control arms? Just want to make sure I'm not wasting money when the only problem i'm trying to correct is the body roll.

Thanks!
Old 12-01-2016, 09:34 AM
  #12  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
MidwestChassis2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,504
Received 38 Likes on 37 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TXCatfish
Which ones are rod ends? Is that another name for lca's? And another dumb question will I see a difference in et/mph moving from stock control arms to aftermarket control arms? Just want to make sure I'm not wasting money when the only problem i'm trying to correct is the body roll.

Thanks!
The two links listed above are heim joint LCAS.

The best way to correct body roll is with a good anti roll bar.
Midwest Chassis Anti Roll Bar link.

Though once you put on an ARB it will find the next "softest" spot and push through it, that usually means rubber or poly suspension items.

There is a reason you see drag cars with heim joints and it isn't because of a selling point. It is simply THE BEST option for suspension performance.
Old 12-01-2016, 09:38 AM
  #13  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
 
01ssreda4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,240
Likes: 0
Received 79 Likes on 70 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by TXCatfish
Which ones are rod ends? Is that another name for lca's? And another dumb question will I see a difference in et/mph moving from stock control arms to aftermarket control arms? Just want to make sure I'm not wasting money when the only problem i'm trying to correct is the body roll.

Thanks!
Google rod end, its the silver joint on the end of the arms. It allows free range movement yet remains solid. Its far superior to a bushing which is in a constant bind with ANY movement. The downside is harshness (because of the lack of ability to soak up noise and vibration) and they likely wont last as long as a bushing. I think at the point where your car comes out of daily driver duty it makes sense to put in more aggressive suspension. My DD only accumulate about 10k or less miles a year, my Camaro lately less then 250. As the mileage uses goes down you can afford to get away from stock type mechanical items. I'm currently replacing my lowers with MWC rod ended lowers, I'm removing BMR poly adjustables. Its the right move for me and my car at this point due to how little I drive it. And while I may not see a direct ET reduction, the suspension will be working better with these arms.
Old 12-01-2016, 09:46 AM
  #14  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
 
Corvett z07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Ft. Wayne, IN
Posts: 549
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TXCatfish
Which ones are rod ends? Is that another name for lca's? And another dumb question will I see a difference in et/mph moving from stock control arms to aftermarket control arms? Just want to make sure I'm not wasting money when the only problem i'm trying to correct is the body roll.

Thanks!
Rod ends and heim joints are the same thing. They're the spherical ball looking things at the ends of the lower control arms where you put the bolt through to mount it into the car. Generally speaking rod ends (heim joints) will be the louder and more clankier than poly bushings and definitely not as compliant as rubber bushings. They do however should give you the most consistent launches off the line provided track conditions are good, tire pressure is kept in line, etc. You mentioned that it's just a track driven car. With that in mind, I think you'd be fine with both ends of the lower control arm being rod ended (heim joints)

Will you see improvements in ET/mph? That's a tough one to call. Lower control arms + lower control arm relocation brackets should give you a better 60' if you had trouble coming off the line, but you mentioned the only thing you're trying to correct is body roll and you're fine coming off the line. You could always install the ARB and then if you're not satisfied with that, try out an aftermarket pair of lower control arms
Old 12-01-2016, 10:50 AM
  #15  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
 
TXCatfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks guys! Exactly what I was looking for!!
Old 12-02-2016, 10:57 AM
  #16  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
 
01ssreda4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,240
Likes: 0
Received 79 Likes on 70 Posts

Default

These showed up yesterday, aluminum lowers from MWC. The great part is I'm selling my used BMRs for about what these cost, which means = free upgrade.

Name:  20161201_150155_zpswc1vqtmg.jpeg
Views: 1641
Size:  935.5 KB
Old 12-02-2016, 02:20 PM
  #17  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
MidwestChassis2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,504
Received 38 Likes on 37 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
These showed up yesterday, aluminum lowers from MWC. The great part is I'm selling my used BMRs for about what these cost, which means = free upgrade.

SSSSHHHHHH people are going to learn we have the best product available at the best prices.



Quick Reply: Rear lower control arms question



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:08 PM.