bunkerbuster

Hello all. I have concerns with putting an aftermarket tubular k-member in my 4th Gen TA. Primarily, I am concerned that if I install a tubular k-member that I will not be able to lift from the k-member anymore. This presents an interesting problem since my car is lowered. So this only leaves the pinch welds to lift on for the front of the car (which is a big no-no).

So, why am I worried about lifting on an aftermarket tubular k-member?
1.) bending the bottom tubing brace
2.) small contact surface for lifting resulting in slipping off tube

1. is really my big concern
2. is not a huge concern since I could just get a hockey puck and mill it out to cradle the tube, and then no worries there.


Anyone here have advice or experience on this topic? I really would like to install a tubular k-member, but not at the cost of not being able to lift from the k-member.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

I lift my car by mine. Although I do prefer to get it off to one side closer to the control arm mount if possible. I have several customers who lift their cars by theirs as well. Our main cross-tube is 1-5/8" .095" wall tubing, so it can support a good bit of load.
As for slipping off, I use a standard floor jack and turn the plate on top so that the tube lands in between the 4 points that stick up off of it so that it is captured from slipping off

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I do not lift mine from the k member since installing an aftermarket piece. I lift from.......wait for it.....The stock jack points. Which are not pinch welds. If you are unfamiliar where the stock jack/lift locations are under the car learn them. There is one that is solid near each wheel, if for some reason your car is too low, buy a low profile jack. May I recommend the one from harbor freight, works really well and doesnt break the bank.

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

^^This I love my low-pro jack although mine isnt from HF

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-60678.html

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Good advice on using the stock jacking points.

Or if you get SFCs, you can use them. But I would still use them near the wheel well.

bunkerbuster

Yep, way ahead of you on the low profile jack. I can tell you from first hand experience that not being able to lift directly in the middle of the k-member can make things much more difficult. Picture related. K-member, motor, and trans removal.

If I'm not mistaken, the frame rails where I think you mean are the stock locations, you can only jack on them if you are able to lift from both sides at the same time distributing weight evenly. I believe lifting on one side only on the frame rails with a floor jack can cause the frame rails to mash in.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

No, youre mistaken. There is one spot at each wheel and would be the location of the jack in the event of a flat tire. You would not jack and entire front or rear of a car for one flat. I think you are overthinking this bc of your last statement, its inconvenient. You're right, it is, but its one thing you have to give up to go lightweight.

mikes87ss

my 02 is lowered and I have same problem as you .I took 2 2x10's and cut one at 3 feet in length and the other at 2 feet in length and screwed them together.I drive the front wheels up onto these and use a jack from there.