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I have a 2015 Z28 and recently I had a lifter fail. Johnson 2110r. It really took out the whole engine, down to the block itself. I am looking at alternative block options because the LS7 blocks arent strong and are very hard to find in good shape by themselves. I have a LC9, LS1 and L33 block laying around my house. Has anyone sleeved any of those blocks to 4.125? I just had an LS3 block done by RED for my truck, but he mentioned he doesnt reccomend doing it to gen3 blocks because of the coolant passages between the cylinders. He didnt elaborate much. I wasnt planning on the camaro having problems anytime soon so Im caught on a really tight budget to get this back on the road. Looking for input from people who have ACTUALLY had gen3/gen4 blocks sleeved to 4.125. I want to know about Longevity mostly. I can srouce another LS3 block but if i dont need to, I dont want too. I really want an RHS block, but they are disgustingly expensive. Thanks
Sorry to see this. It seems it is always the small things that kill you. Man, I've NEVER seen a piston take an *** beating like that, and not crack or break. Amazing......
#12571048 5.3 block is the preferred block (Gen4) to sleeve. I’ve had several blocks sleeved by Steve at RED, and he prefers this one the most. It will go out to 4.185 N/A safely with the Darton sleeves. I just sold one a few months back actually, sleeved by Steve.
#12571048 5.3 block is the preferred block (Gen4) to sleeve. I’ve had several blocks sleeved by Steve at RED, and he prefers this one the most. It will go out to 4.185 N/A safely with the Darton sleeves. I just sold one a few months back actually, sleeved by Steve.
So my LC9 should have that part number right? I cant find a number etched into the block anywhere to make sure though.
Sorry to hear about the engine troubles. Your LC9 could potentially be the 12571048 casting number block that @Che70velle mentioned. The block casting number should be located between the webbing on the upper passenger side of the block just beneath the cylinder head.
My last 1048 block had the number etched into one of the small casting tabs along the oil pan, in very small numbers. Took me a minute to find it actually. Check all the tabs everywhere on the block. Either way, if it’s a Gen4 aluminum block, chances are it’s the better block.
I know it doesnt help, but I ran the GM LS7 lifters with a .638"/.646" lift cam with no issues. Was thinking about stopping calling them LS7 lifters because they aren't exclusive to the LS7. But since GM does make the ceramic ball Cadillac racing hydraulic lifters, I'll continue the somewhat redundant habit. Chevelle is right, go with a 5.3 block. Even when I had the Darton sleeved block, with 4.125 bore, which Steve did a fine job on back in 2006, Steve wasn't a huge fan of LS7 blocks, even then. He has told me since then that the 5.3 block is a better block. Probably any of the aluminum 5.3 blocks are superior to a degree....
I used the .660 springs that BTR recommended. The tune limits right at 7000rpm, but tuning it pretty much the only time it ever went that far. This valvetrain had about 5000 miles on it when it failed.
This situation is exactly why Im torn about changing my 50,000 mile lifters. There's always a chance you'll get a defective part. Very sorry you had this problem..
Despite what the BTR rep told you, I don't believe you have enough spring for that cam. I bet your issue was valve control and that is what took out the lifter.
Despite what the BTR rep told you, I don't believe you have enough spring for that cam. I bet your issue was valve control and that is what took out the lifter.
I would be VERY interested in the full spring specs. Like seat pressure at recommended installed height, over the nose pressure at .660" lift, spring brand, etc. Assuming they have to be duals. I run PAC 1905 springs and Ti retainers. Rated at .650" lift. 160lbs seat, 425lbs open. I run Ferrea hollow stem stainless intake valves, and stainless solid stem exhaust valves. Shift rpm is @7,000rpm. I have no valve float. But my cam is around .600" lift, and in valvetrain nomenclature, that is a huge difference, so there’s that.....
I would be VERY interested in the full spring specs. Like seat pressure at recommended installed height, over the nose pressure at .660" lift, spring brand, etc. Assuming they have to be duals. I run PAC 1905 springs and Ti retainers. Rated at .650" lift. 160lbs seat, 425lbs open. I run Ferrea hollow stem stainless intake valves, and stainless solid stem exhaust valves. Shift rpm is @7,000rpm. I have no valve float. But my cam is around .600" lift, and in valvetrain nomenclature, that is a huge difference, so there’s that.....
They are BTR SK001 with titanium retainers.
.660 max lift dual springs
155lb @ 1.78"
380lb @ 1.18"
400lb @ 1.13"
coil bind @ 1.07"
Heads are at the machine shop. They are going to test the spring rate to see if they are weak
Was the lifter tray a true GM part? Once you build a new engine, I’d run Johnson linkbar lifters -OR- a CamMotion LLSR.
They were from BTRs website, I didn't check the part number on it. Other than the scratch on it from debris the trays were fine. The lifter did not rotate in the slot.
06-11-2024, 01:40 PM
LS7 Johnson Lifter Failure 
