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lowered with 3 in. y pipe

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Old Jul 3, 2004 | 09:28 AM
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Default lowered with 3 in. y pipe

anyone lowered that has lt's and a 3 inch y pipe?
please post pics or pm me for my email address
Thanks
Travis
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Old Jul 3, 2004 | 10:03 AM
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I have a 3" Mufflex Y and my car is lowered 1.5" (Hypercoils) and my driver side pipe scraps a lot and my collector catches occasionally. The bad thing is that I'll be driving down the highway and where an overpass bridge concretes meets the normal highway part (where the occasional hump is) my pipe smacks the ground ALL the time. I'm going with a 2.5" true dual system anyways so it doesn't matter anymore to me.
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Old Jul 4, 2004 | 12:26 AM
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My car is lowered 2 inches in the front, 2.5 inches in the back so all four fenders measure 26 inches above the ground. I have LT's and a 3 inch Y with 4 inch output, but never scrape. My SLP subframes are still the lowest part of the car. Let me know if you are interested in how I did it.
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Old Jul 4, 2004 | 12:54 AM
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26 inches above the ground ? wtf
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Old Jul 4, 2004 | 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Nesto
26 inches above the ground ? wtf
measureing from the highest inner curve of the fender , the outter lip of the wheel well i believe is what he is talking about. which basically, his **** is slamed like a ****.

please how did you do it. thats why i posted here, if you have picks id love to see them. thanks
Travis
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Old Jul 5, 2004 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by slik98z
measureing from the highest inner curve of the fender , the outter lip of the wheel well i believe is what he is talking about. which basically, his **** is slamed like a ****.

please how did you do it. thats why i posted here, if you have picks id love to see them. thanks
Travis
Exactly right, good description I'll try to round up some pics, but until then I'll tell you this:
If you use headers, you want QTP's because they tuck up VERY tight. But the problem is, if your 3 inch pipe stays up that close to the floor pan, the one on the driver side will bang like hell everytime you let out the clutch fast; this happens for two reasons 1) the direction of engine torque 2) floor pan is lower on the driver side because of some floor pan stiffener reinforcements. So what I did was cut a "path" through the reinforcements for the 3" Y pipe. Of course that makes the floor pan flimsy, so I welded a U-channel on top of the floor, directly above where I took the factory stuff out. It's about one inch high and 4 inches wide, but not even noticeable under the carpet because I cut the same path through the padding. So there is both carpet and padding everywhere except over my new reinforcement, where now there is a single layer of carpet only. The bump is immediatly in front of the driver's seat and has never bothered me. Some people deal with the Y pipe banging the floor with poly or solid motor mounts, but I saved that in case my solution didn't work. I haven't needed the motor mounts . . .

The other problem area is getting past the tunnel brace. May people just leave it off and let the Y hang low. I don't like that because I want my chassis as stiff as possible. So I built my own Y out of stainless, 3" mandrel bends that hugs the floor pan, so the tunnel brace can still go on. But even this caused banging on the stock brace, so I made my own, stiffer brace out of 1/4" steel that drops a little lower (but still not as low as my SLP subframes. I also made a slot for an oval muffler in front of the axle by cutting the floorpan below one rear seat then boxing it back in higher, but that is not necessary just to have a 3" Y pipe.

My car does scrape going through some automatic car washes, but it's the SLP subrames that always hit first, thus protecting the stainless headers and exhaust.

Last edited by Cal; Jul 5, 2004 at 12:22 AM.
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