Shock Mount What am I looking at here in terms of fixing? These were installed incorrectly. Is it as simple as replacing the mount and making sure there is an isolater rubber part installed at the top? Will this require a spring compressor? Things to look out for doing it myself, this would be the first time messing with suspension related parts. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...d59dc7e2b2.png |
Yes you will need a spring compressor. Here is a really good, pic heavy walk through with part #'s. https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-6-5-15-a.html |
Those look like Strano springs, so don't use those typical long threaded spring compressors that you put on either side. The spring is too strong--I know because I broke several compressors attempting that method. I recommend something like this Harbor Freight unit I have (#43753). I had to grind down the fingers to get them to fit between the coils properly, but I have used it at least 4 times now on both sides, and it works flawlessly. As always though, be careful, as there is a dangerous amount of potential energy in a compressed spring. Most of the rest of it is just basic tools and sockets. The upright can be pretty heavy and clumsy until you get everything anchored back to the car, so be prepared to wrestle with it a little to line everything up again. I don't know when yours was put together incorrectly or why, but the typical thing is that water collects above the upper isolator and rusts out the tops, so if it wasn't just done, rust may stop you along the way. Here's a pic of what you will be dealing with: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...c8d45fa9e9.jpg |
I second the clam-shell type compressor! Much safer. Also yes, fingers are too wide but will work with grinding or fiddling. |
Man having a professional wall mounted spring compressor at work is so nice. But they are quite pricey to have for just the DIY guy. |
So the spring compressor you can rent isn't worth the risk? |
not unless it looks like that one posted above. |
Definitely use a spring compressor if need be. I didn't have to use one when I installed my strano springs. |
FWIW I used a low end compressor with the fingers when I swapped my stranos and konis. One of my shock mounts was completely broken...as in the top of the shock was just rattling around in there. Just be mindful of the compressed spring as far as safety concerns go. (As previously mentioned) If you don’t want to do that part you could take it to a local garage to take the spring/strut assembly apart and back together with the new mount. |
So did it look like mine? The picture above? If that isn't bolted on the top nut, the assembly can still come off as whole? |
Originally Posted by blackbirdls1
(Post 20087143)
If that isn't bolted on the top nut, the assembly can still come off as whole? I'm not sure how much room you'll have in there, but it may not be fun and it's very important that you ensure you have the compressor firmly on the spring and that it cannot come off. There may be multiple ways to approach it, but the upper shock mount is no longer attached to the assembly. |
So it came out pretty much effortlessly. I am attaching pics so you guys can see how this was installed. There was no isolator installed period. Also there is this rubber piece that was on the top of the A arm, is this even needed? I think this was used instead of the metal isolator piece. Are my shocks salvageable? The bottom bushing seems bent up. This is going to be a bigger project than i thought, but i plan on cleaning out the rust from the A arm and painting it, going to do the ball joints as well, tie rod ends, etc. Any input is appreciated. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...d8e60090c7.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...cfd1d01a3c.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...31b8497045.jpg |
that bottom bush is shot.....dont think there is a poly bush you can use as a replacement |
It didn’t seem cracked. The paint is. The position of it is moved but it’s rubber. Not sure if I should order new ones or not. |
That lower bushing doesn't look so good, even if it can be slid back into location, and the top threads may also need chasing with a die at the very least. Given the damage to the bushing, the dust boot, and the fact that the upper mount tore, I would guess that the shock experienced some excessive side loads while it was not properly located at the top end. This could damage internal seals in the shock valving too. If it were me, I would just get new shocks and avoid having to disassemble/reassemble everything twice. If you are on a budget, you can try to run it if you can get everything together, just watch the shaft for leakage or signs or rubbing/binding. |
Originally Posted by blackbirdls1
(Post 20087143)
So did it look like mine? The picture above? If that isn't bolted on the top nut, the assembly can still come off as whole? If you are questioning replacing bushings, just do it. You're in there now and wont ever be easier to replace that stuff. These cars are getting old and if yours is like mine its getting way up there in mileage and will need parts replaced. You'll be happy you did it all at once. And as an aside, the broken mount issue contributed to steering part issues. I've replaced the power steering pump and rack because the previous owner must have driven for a long time with the broken mount. |
2 more questions. The rubber piece on the top of the A arm that seats to the body. Is there a part number for that? Also, I purchased two isolators from rock auto branded as Sachs. The piece that sits in the mount between the nut and mount. Will this work fine? I see there are various isolators. They all look similar. |
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