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What am I looking at here in terms of fixing? These were installed incorrectly. Is it as simple as replacing the mount and making sure there is an isolater rubber part installed at the top? Will this require a spring compressor? Things to look out for doing it myself, this would be the first time messing with suspension related parts.
Those look like Strano springs, so don't use those typical long threaded spring compressors that you put on either side. The spring is too strong--I know because I broke several compressors attempting that method. I recommend something like this Harbor Freight unit I have (#43753). I had to grind down the fingers to get them to fit between the coils properly, but I have used it at least 4 times now on both sides, and it works flawlessly. As always though, be careful, as there is a dangerous amount of potential energy in a compressed spring. Most of the rest of it is just basic tools and sockets. The upright can be pretty heavy and clumsy until you get everything anchored back to the car, so be prepared to wrestle with it a little to line everything up again. I don't know when yours was put together incorrectly or why, but the typical thing is that water collects above the upper isolator and rusts out the tops, so if it wasn't just done, rust may stop you along the way.
FWIW I used a low end compressor with the fingers when I swapped my stranos and konis. One of my shock mounts was completely broken...as in the top of the shock was just rattling around in there.
Just be mindful of the compressed spring as far as safety concerns go. (As previously mentioned)
If you don’t want to do that part you could take it to a local garage to take the spring/strut assembly apart and back together with the new mount.
From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY, Dalton GA, Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by blackbirdls1
If that isn't bolted on the top nut, the assembly can still come off as whole?
It's been a while since I replaced my springs and shocks, so someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but based upon your photos you will not be able to remove everything as a single assembly. You're going to have to compress the spring, probably undo the bottom shock mounts, remove the spring and shock, and then remove the upper shock mount, reassemble(correctly), install etc. The only thing holding all of that stuff together at the top is the shock stud & nut, which has obviously pulled through, and is no longer engaged with, the upper mount. You may have to replace some stuff due to damage or what not.
I'm not sure how much room you'll have in there, but it may not be fun and it's very important that you ensure you have the compressor firmly on the spring and that it cannot come off.
There may be multiple ways to approach it, but the upper shock mount is no longer attached to the assembly.
So it came out pretty much effortlessly. I am attaching pics so you guys can see how this was installed. There was no isolator installed period. Also there is this rubber piece that was on the top of the A arm, is this even needed? I think this was used instead of the metal isolator piece. Are my shocks salvageable? The bottom bushing seems bent up. This is going to be a bigger project than i thought, but i plan on cleaning out the rust from the A arm and painting it, going to do the ball joints as well, tie rod ends, etc. Any input is appreciated.
That lower bushing doesn't look so good, even if it can be slid back into location, and the top threads may also need chasing with a die at the very least. Given the damage to the bushing, the dust boot, and the fact that the upper mount tore, I would guess that the shock experienced some excessive side loads while it was not properly located at the top end. This could damage internal seals in the shock valving too. If it were me, I would just get new shocks and avoid having to disassemble/reassemble everything twice. If you are on a budget, you can try to run it if you can get everything together, just watch the shaft for leakage or signs or rubbing/binding.
So did it look like mine? The picture above? If that isn't bolted on the top nut, the assembly can still come off as whole?
Sorry, I didn't see your reply earlier. Yes, that is what it looked like up top. It was dicey taking the assembly out because I could not see that the top mount was broken so there was tension I did not anticipate. Mine was okay to remove as you said yours was.
If you are questioning replacing bushings, just do it. You're in there now and wont ever be easier to replace that stuff. These cars are getting old and if yours is like mine its getting way up there in mileage and will need parts replaced. You'll be happy you did it all at once.
And as an aside, the broken mount issue contributed to steering part issues. I've replaced the power steering pump and rack because the previous owner must have driven for a long time with the broken mount.
Last edited by 09 Rooster; Apr 30, 2019 at 10:13 AM.
2 more questions. The rubber piece on the top of the A arm that seats to the body. Is there a part number for that? Also, I purchased two isolators from rock auto branded as Sachs. The piece that sits in the mount between the nut and mount. Will this work fine? I see there are various isolators. They all look similar.
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Shock Mount 
