Different wheel base lengths?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: CT
Different wheel base lengths? So I'm running into an issue with my wheel base. I have adjustable rear control arms, QP 9", adjustable TA and panhard bar. I measured the wheel base on both sides and I'm off 5/8th's of an inch in total. I have my LCA's set to the lowest hole on the rend end mount and I measure out 103" driver side and 102 3/8th's passenger (measuring center front hub to center rear axle). Anybody ever run into this issue before? Obviously adjust control arms to make the wheel base equal?
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 36
Likes: 7
From: Charleston, SC
I have seen this, but that is a bunch IMO, and you likely feel the same since you posted. There are times I use rear steer for the drag strip, which impacts these distances, but not 5/8" by any means. A 1/8" to 1/4" of rear steer makes a big difference when used to keep a car straight on the launch and under heavy acceleration. The lower bars are what you would use to adjust this. Curious if you can measure the center to center distance of both LCA and see if they are different lengths?
Is the car crab walking or another issue with tracking? Or is this a new build or "putting back together after fabrication"? Sorry for the questions.
Does this help? New to LS1Tech, but not new to chassis and suspension work.
Is the car crab walking or another issue with tracking? Or is this a new build or "putting back together after fabrication"? Sorry for the questions.
Does this help? New to LS1Tech, but not new to chassis and suspension work.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: CT
I have seen this, but that is a bunch IMO, and you likely feel the same since you posted. There are times I use rear steer for the drag strip, which impacts these distances, but not 5/8" by any means. A 1/8" to 1/4" of rear steer makes a big difference when used to keep a car straight on the launch and under heavy acceleration. The lower bars are what you would use to adjust this. Curious if you can measure the center to center distance of both LCA and see if they are different lengths?
Is the car crab walking or another issue with tracking? Or is this a new build or "putting back together after fabrication"? Sorry for the questions.
Does this help? New to LS1Tech, but not new to chassis and suspension work.
Is the car crab walking or another issue with tracking? Or is this a new build or "putting back together after fabrication"? Sorry for the questions.
Does this help? New to LS1Tech, but not new to chassis and suspension work.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 36
Likes: 7
From: Charleston, SC
What kind of car is this? Custom work on rear or all factory just with upgraded arms? Sorry if that is posted somewhere and I missed it. Toe in on the front can screw with you if one wheel is turned in/out more than the other and you are trying to get in the center of the hub/spindle. If the front lower control arm as a lower ball joint with a grease fitting you can measure off that point to avoid toe in/out screwing with you on measuring front to rear. The top end issue you are describing sounds more like something is dancing under load, so I am curious if you have upgraded bushing in the rear or if you are running solid mount heim joints? I would double and triple check on my mount points to make sure everything is tight with no play. With the rear bars equal length I would not start messing with wheelbase until you confirmed with a different point of reference upfront, like a ball joint.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: CT
What kind of car is this? Custom work on rear or all factory just with upgraded arms? Sorry if that is posted somewhere and I missed it. Toe in on the front can screw with you if one wheel is turned in/out more than the other and you are trying to get in the center of the hub/spindle. If the front lower control arm as a lower ball joint with a grease fitting you can measure off that point to avoid toe in/out screwing with you on measuring front to rear. The top end issue you are describing sounds more like something is dancing under load, so I am curious if you have upgraded bushing in the rear or if you are running solid mount heim joints? I would double and triple check on my mount points to make sure everything is tight with no play. With the rear bars equal length I would not start messing with wheelbase until you confirmed with a different point of reference upfront, like a ball joint.
