02blackws6bolton

I want to upgrade my warped rotors and i was looking at the powerslots with hawk pads i found a site that has all 4 for 407.88 with free shipping and they have the pro stops for like 15$ more. The prostops are the same as the power slot but with dimples and slots. It says in the info that its for the look of cross drilled, Should i opt for the pro slots or should i stick with the powerslots. I just want good performance out of my brakes. Thanks

FYI AJ-USA.com for the rotors

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...led_rotors.htm

Start there. Brake performance is 99% pad dependent. Meaning, buy cheap rotors (that don't warp, I prefer Brembo OEM rotors) and good pads, you'll stop much better than cheap pads and $500 rotors. If you want them because they look cool, that is one thing, if you are buying them because marketing says they are "better", don't. That link will give you the info you need to help you make an informed decision.

02blackws6bolton

I have read that the powerslots are made from a high quality rotor to begin with, is this true and would it be a good choice or should i go with a plain rotor and the hawks? I know you said you like the brembo oem's when i called tirerack on some info the sales guy told me that the powerslots were a better rotor then the brembo is this true. And i have an autozone around the corner from my house how are the rotors from them, they have the amico extreme and others are these any good, also do the hawk pads really make as much noise as everyone is sayin or are they not breaking them in the proper way. I dont want to be squeeking all around town, my car is a daily driver. Thanks for the info.

98DroptopSS

iTrader: (2)

Are the Hawk pads good for daily driving, and an occaisional autorcross? Or would you recommend having 2 sets of pads? Also, is there certain rotors to stay away from?

Cyborg

iTrader: (8)

I had a set of powerslot rotors and it didn't take too much to warp them...having said that, it's important to note that the cause of pretty much ANY rotor warping is due to continued application of the brakes after you've come to a complete stop under heavy braking...this causes the very hot pads, to press against the very hot rotors under very high pressure compounding the stress on the rotor material...If you look closely in the cockpit of many roadrace cars they have a printed reminder on the dash saying "Take foot off brake" so that when they pull in the pit, after they stop they get their foot off the brake so they don't warp the rotors...something to think about...

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Check the prices. It is a more expensive rotor and they make much more profit on it, or I suspect that they do. It is not "better", it is just different (and maybe pretty). They will not stop you any better (as covered on that link). It is tough to seperate fact from marketing. Many people can't tell the difference anymore and begin to believe the hype. Or, profit becomes their guide.

Have fun!

LS1MONSTER

iTrader: (1)

Just a reminder PROPER TORQUE of the wheels is a key factor in rotor warpage too.

Hyper Chick

I have the Powerslots and Hawk pads and I love them. I am also very hard on my breaks and have had no warping at all and they've been on the car almost a year and 25k miles later.

02blackws6bolton

waiting for the brembos and hawks should be here on the 3rd Any special way for break in i've read so many ways to brake them in and it all sounds good but i want them to be right. Are the pads and rotors going to send a break in step guide, and should i change my brake fluid the car is almost 3 yrs old with 30,000mi on it never changed. What kind should i get if it needs to be done is Willwood 570 race fluid or is that too much for a daily driver.

02blackws6bolton

Got the brembos and hawks today and put them on they seem to be quite good will let everyone know how they are. Thanks for all the advice.

Darian