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just did new control arm bushings (MOOG) and new lower ball joints (MOOG)
had a buddy just get alignment close for me so it’s drivable come spring. Aside from having to get the toe tweaked to center wheel (hanging a touch left) - it doesn’t pull and drives good. He said the caster on RF wouldn’t get any lower, I read between .5-.7° side to side is max - the fact I’m not getting a pull would you leave this as is or add some caster to the left (5.3-5.5°?) when we’re doing toe?
My 99T/A was out on alignment and no "adjustment" remained. Shop insisted the car would need to be "pulled" on a frame machine to get the car into proper alignment. That of course was totally ridiculous 🙄 as car had never been hit etc. I mentioned it appeared if the k-member was shifted slightly to one side, they would have "adjustment". Turned there was an alignment specialty tool needed to do an alignment on a 4th Gen they didn't have (see above links) that did exactly that with the control arms. They used a ratch straps and or pry bar and shifted slightly. Car alignment was redone and ended up nearly perfect.
A friend had ran into same/similar issue getting his 2000 B4C Camaro alignment done. Shop insisted he'd have to buy the speciality tool for them so they could do his alignment with a special surcharge. They of course would keep the tool.
When my 02 Z28 needed alignment, I just went to the local mom & pops Chevrolet dealer that had all of the correct tools to line up a 4th Gen. I asked it was like ~$110 but car was nearly perfect etc. Definitely better than the round and round at the other shops.
I don't know if that's the issue but wanted to mention and share information.
Best wishes with getting car sorted.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; Dec 9, 2022 at 09:36 AM.
Leave it, it makes no difference a couple tenths of a degree. If your toe is good and it tracks straight there is no concern. Street alignment looks like what you got there, more of everything, camber, caster, toe-in will improve handling to a point, but stock parts are limited anyway.
Ended up scoring a MINT (Appears never used) J-38658 Caster/Camber tool from a closed down GM Store.
Lubricated it all up, and its ready for spring where I can get my car dialed in on our Hunter rack at work
Question, would I have to loosen camber and caster bolts to make the adjustments then tighten them together when everything is in spec? Wouldnt imagine I could adjust camber with caster bolt torqued down and vis versa.
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Caster question 
