BMR TRACK PACK T/A broke!!!!
 

my BMR trak pak torque arm snapped on street tires while on the street... after about 10 12.3-12.4 runs at the track a few weeks before

it broke the bar right at the center bars weld (the weak spot)

what can be done or am i just SOL? my entire car is BMR'd out (minus the front end which will be soon especially if this is resolved) and after this happened i see posts on the board where other ppl have broken there BMR things.

I hate posting this but BMR blew me off and i don't weant other ppl to get stuck being a bunch of new parts because there BMR can't handle a 12 second NEAR STOCK ls1 :cry:

you got anypics of where it broke or can you get some id like ot see what you talking about i been running the trac pake over a year and no problems only thing i keep breaking is my pinon gear i nthe rear end
Eddie

If they were to not fix this or send you a new one (as this could somehow be a fluke) then i doubt i could sell BMR at my shop anymore... But i always give the manufacturor a chance to step up the plate and make good on things like this, and when they do, it makes them look that much better for it (i.e. AP engineerings recents changes after problems makes them look even better than before they had the problems)

BMR is getting hit by Frances right now. Pretty much all of Florida is shut down at the moment. I'm sure they will take care of any problem you may have after this is over.

i PM'd them about 2 weeks ago with no responce.

http://img23.exs.cx/img23/5190/BMRsfineproducts.jpg

http://img23.exs.cx/img23/3157/BMRsfineproducts2.jpg

2 weeks ago- the day they posted the 10.98 run on the sprayed GTO

i just wanted to give them enough time tofigure out somethig to do. i would of been happy to pay for some of it but they wouldn't even return my PM.... is this what i shold expect out of a company like this that i've plugged NON STOP for the last year?

that sucks that happend man. i whould call them and ask ot tal kot frank he is the main tech guy and very frindly to talk to. he can point you in the right direction.
like i said i have had my trac pak on for over a year lots of hard rough miles on it and no problems, and i too have all other bmr stuff on my car minus the front end stuff.
i whould call probly be the best way ot get in touch than pming them
Eddie

HAhaha whaaaat?! lol just messing with you man :poke:

i called and they quoted me $465 for the extreme. said they cannot do anything since i don't have the reciept

Glad to hear this early was about to do damn near the whole car in BMR I've been saving my pennies for a long time but I guess I'll buy from somebody else to bad they didn't jump on fixing your stuff. Good Luck

Same here, post up what happens. I was going to do the whole car BMR. But now maybee not. I have the STB & SFC's was about to arder LCA's when I saw this post. I would call them & who you purchased the parts from. The vendor may have better luck than you. I can't believe they would not just send you a new one. Probably costs them $20.

They won't even swap you the broken one for a new one? WTF? Definitely call whoever you bought this from, they should have records of the transaction. I'm pretty sure you can get a copy of the receipt from them. Especially if they operate a website. I've heard a ton of good things about BMR, this is the first time I've seen them shaft somebody straight up. I hope this gets straightened out, and they help you out. Presuming the piece was installed right, then they should definitely be replacing it for you. From the facts we have so far, this is definitely looking poorly on BMR right now.

i'm now going to Spohn. i have the spohn torque arm and its BEEFY!

never again will BMR get my money. i've already called them and PM'd them... no responce for a long time (giving them time so they don't get another bad rap on this board) but enough was enough. i just don't want others to make the same mistake i did.

it killed my $350 drive shaft, pinion yoke on the 9 inch (don't know a cost but looks like a Moser one will be $124), and 28 for Moroso U-joint girdles.

all in all, i think this has been a very sour experiance in my mouth toward BMR :(

Well, I've been trying to decide between BMR and Spohn, I guess Spohn it is...

This is not the first time I have heard of BMR stuff breaking... :(

When I get money, I am going with Spohn stuff.

I am sure BMR will make everything ok, just get some information of the sale and try to just swap it with them.

-Todd

the person i got it formcan't find where he bought it fom :(

i wouldn't trust another one anyway. if a 12.3 car can brake it while on street tires ON THE STREET, how would you feel with slicks dumping at 6600?

Hate to burst your bubble but DAMMMMMNNNN!!!! 12.3 in a near stock car??? What kind of 60 fts are you cutting? You must be launching the crap out of that car! Automatic or manual? stall?

I am running 12.6s in my cam and bolt ons setup with a 2.0 60ft. I might not be the best driver out there but keep in mind I am dynoing 380rwhp and added 373s to the equation. You could be beating my times with 40 less horsepower if not more. This is causing a lot of driving abuse to the car.

Awesome times :cheers: . Not a hater, but you must understand that your are driving your car beyond its expected potentials and this is what could happen.

Please give us your 60 ft times and 1/8 time.
Good luck :)

Make sure and keep us updated, I'm also looking at BMR items over the winter..although I can understand their hesitance to help since you cannot show when or where it was bought....I'd sure hate to see one go though, right above my DUALS...

I've seen other people make a similar argument when BMR stuff breaks; racing is hard on a car so don't expect much from the parts you buy. Well yes, racing is tough on all parts of the car and breakage is expected. It can happen. BUT when you pay money for something like an "Xtreme" torque arm that the manufacturer advertises will survive, and I quote "anything you can throw at it" and be "bulletproof" enough for an 8 second car, that's what the customer should be able to expect. That's why they buy 9" rear ends; because it can take more than a 10 bolt can take.

If they can't replace it because you don't have the bill, well that's one thing. I just don't want to be too quick to let BMR off the hook for this.

the only power mods are:
headers
lid
cutout

the rest is weight reduction and lots driving
ford 9 inch
3 1/2 inch hipo driveshaft
stage 4 clutch
McCloed adjustable master
solid LCA's
boxed subframe connectors

6500- dump clutch
no lift shift

that was when i had 3.70's and the ls1 intake

60 foot- 1.74
1/8th mile 7.94

what ppl don't understand about these cars is they make enough power to run 12.4 STOCK. you just need to get all that power to the ground (which i still haven't done yet.... feels ALOT better with 4.30's in it)

Isn't this the same "track pak" not "extreme" torque arm in Icon autosports car that has a turbo 350 with a trans brake and 60' foots in the 1.30's and runs in the mid 9's? :confused:

Let me set a few records straight. First, we don't accept private messages so there is no reason to ever check them. We just don't have the resources to monitor all of the web forums that we sponsor. Please, if you have a problem, send us an email or give us a call before you start a "Bash BMR" thread. I am sorry we did not respond sooner, we have been through 2 hurricanes in the last 2 weeks and are having problems just staying open.

Secondly, we do have a replacement policy. We will replace any product that fails within the the first year of service providing the customer has a receipt. Without a receipt, their is no way of telling how old a product is or what it has been through. People have a habit of setting the pinion angles wrong or adjusting the adjuster out too far which is typically what causes a failure. The torque arm pictured is over 2 years old. The rear bracket and torque arm design has evolved through the years as the cars have become quicker. While the Trak Pak pictured has run into the 9's before and the newer version has actually seen a 9.30 pass, we typically recommend these times for our Xtreme torque arm which is much stronger.

The Xtreme torque arm just set a record in Innovative Turbos' 3rd generation F-Body this past weekend. He ran a 7.98@180mph on our "off-the-shelf" torque arm with BFG Drag Radials!

It is dissapointing to see posts where a product has failed . . . although in responce, I have a ton of BMR products on my SS for years without incident.

Will something fail? I sure hope not, but anyway failures do occur, and more often when you mod your car. I certainly do not see this as a manufacturing issue . . .

To get a 12.6 out of a stock motor you have to be beating the living piss out of the car and its parts . . .

maybe thats why i sent it 2 weeks ago with no return.... :bang:

i called and asked what i could do, hoping to get even the slighest cut on price but for what i would have paid to get a new bar, Forced Performance gave me a Spohn torque arm that mounts in the same spot but looks ALOT stronger for the same.

just bugged me to get something i thought was "beefed up" and have it fail on me

not really. it had more in it but it was humid, hot, and i had to drive 90 miles to get home. it was built for what i'm doing (or so i thought) and i know o many other ppl who push there cars MUCH harder

think about this.... do you go to the track to push the gas pedal all the way down or to run the car lightly? NO, you go to push it.... stretch its legs out :drive:

i had one person predict i'd go a 13.0 and another predict i'd go 12.7 :jest:

I too was thinking of getting a torque arm from BMR, but I guess I'm not going with them anymore.

I have to agree...that is an extreme time for a stock motor...

it pulled 352hp on a friends dyno when he first opened shop. i thought it was way BS but maybe it is pullling the numbers :burn: :pimp:

and maybe the weight mods are showing up ;)

uh, you left of the RW on that hp rating... :huh:

sry, 352rwhp. it just doesn't feel like it has that

excessive over extension of the adjuster perhaps creating a weird bind. maybe the cross bar was welded to far forward on the SFC's causing a need to have the adjuster all the way out(?)

i've been driving on the street (daily driven) for just under 2 years now ~15,000miles with BMR tubular k-member and lower tubular a-arms and have hit many a pot holes at all different rates of speed/angles and this thing has taken a beating and is still going strong!

looks to me like that thing broke because of install error and or bad suspension geometry

and Chapman, i cant even believe you are trying to get a refund on a product that you bought used from a private 3rd party, thats pathetic.

Yes sir! I agree. I have been trying to make that same decision, and Spohn it is.

HorsePower Factory installed it, i didn't. you know that

wasn't trying for a refund, was more trying to give the "look out" as i bought a Spohn one anyway

3rd party or not, it was still purchased from BMR from the getgo.

I kind of stand behind BMR on this one, i wouldnt expect them to warranty a 2 year old part, that was bought used. I have a BMR Trak PAck sitting on my floor im looking at right now i havent put in yet, i think im going to make sure i keep my reciept, lol.

one word.... Spohn. i shoulda took pics of the difference

i got the spohn that mounts in the stock location. it is friggin beefy. i love it. here are pics:

http://207.127.219.37/images/spohnTA.jpg

http://207.127.219.37/images/spohnTA2.jpg

I am very surprized that a low 12 second car pulling 1.7 60ft's broke that thing.I was running 12.2 cutting 1.62 60ft.'s with the stock torque rail ,stock shocks ,springs ,struts,and stock clutch and never broke a thing.Then I did H&C and did a BMR panhard,LCA and TA.I have the TA that mounts to the tranny.I know this isn't what I should be running but I got all the BMR stuff for 200 bucks brand new,some kid got it all for x-mas and never put it on the car then sold the car.I cut 1.56 60ft.'s with a lesser TA.I'm gonna upgrade to a yank solid convesionframe mount to take some stress off my tranny.Maybe your pion angle was too agressive.Not sure how that sucker could have broke.Good luck with your TA problems

Dude, your car should be running faster.With just bolt on's-SLP LT headers,firehawk cat back,SLP lid,4.11 gears,totally stock suspension(sway bar still hooked up,SLP flow pac,stock clutch,RAm Air HO hood gutted ducts,my car went 12.2 with a 1.62 60ft at 109mph.That was on a 16" MT ET street 26" tire at full weight-(3710 with me in it) the rear didn't like that so much though it only took about 20 passes of that before I broke a axel.I think if you put a good tire on that car of yours and invest in a rear you should be in the 11's.I know that if I had my car tuned and did a clutch upgrade and maybe even a e/water pump I would have been in the 11's with out getting into the engine.I have done a lot since my sig. but not changing it just yet.I have done some stuff to drop some weight and now I'm running a x-pipe to 3" duals,bigger injectors and fuel pump,clutch,TNT F2 kit.Once it's all dialed in I'll change it and should have video also

thats why i'm saying there had to be some whacked out geometry going on in there not at the fault of BMR's product! a suspension system that is improperly installed and not to spec is going to wreak major havoc on all parts of the rear suspension tires/lca's/panhard/tq arm/pinion everything!
when it binds up and has nowhere to go, something is going to give and in this case it was the tq arm at its weakest most stressed point
and as far as i know, everything dealing with his rear suspension (cept panhard rod maybe) was adjustable.
maybe he fuxored up the geometry by over extending the adjustable rod ended lca's when trying to clearance his 28" tire he has/had on there, that would force the tq arm to be moved back farther off the crossbrace and then there was an over correction or something made in the pinion angle (shrugs, my theory anyway)
he broke it on the street, not at the track so his ET and 60' times dont come into play here