Unable to set negative camber?
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 422
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From: Washington Crossing, PA
Unable to set negative camber? Has this ever happened to anyone? I had my car in a fairly reputable shop today and had them check the alignment. Camber was positive, so I asked them to crank it around -0.5 to -1.0. After an hour of working on it, they come back to me and say the best they could do is +0.5 on one side and +0.1 on the other! 
I've never heard of such a thing, has anyone else???
The car is basically stock ('00 SS).
If this is the case, I guess I'll have to find a way to move the top strut mounts.
I've never heard of such a thing, has anyone else??? The car is basically stock ('00 SS).
If this is the case, I guess I'll have to find a way to move the top strut mounts.
Originally Posted by Fran D
The car is basically stock ('00 SS).
Have you hit or run over anything?
Did they check Camber sweep?
That would indicate a bent knuckle.
At stock ride height, one doesn't get a lot of camber, but I would think you could get it to zero, anyway.
Leave the tops alone. If you want more camber, slot the lower A-Arm attachment points about 1/8" in order to slide the lower out, more. Easier and a LOT safer ....
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 422
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From: Washington Crossing, PA
Originally Posted by mitchntx
Car is at stock ride height, I assume.
Have you hit or run over anything?
Did they check Camber sweep?
That would indicate a bent knuckle.
That would indicate a bent knuckle.
At stock ride height, one doesn't get a lot of camber, but I would think you could get it to zero, anyway.
Leave the tops alone. If you want more camber, slot the lower A-Arm attachment points about 1/8" in order to slide the lower out, more. Easier and a LOT safer ....
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 294
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From: San Jose, CA
Originally Posted by Fran D
Has this ever happened to anyone? I had my car in a fairly reputable shop today and had them check the alignment. Camber was positive, so I asked them to crank it around -0.5 to -1.0. After an hour of working on it, they come back to me and say the best they could do is +0.5 on one side and +0.1 on the other! I've never heard of such a thing, has anyone else???
The car is basically stock ('00 SS).
If this is the case, I guess I'll have to find a way to move the top strut mounts.
I've never heard of such a thing, has anyone else??? The car is basically stock ('00 SS).
If this is the case, I guess I'll have to find a way to move the top strut mounts.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
From: Washington Crossing, PA
Originally Posted by DravenMyers
The camber is adjusted by slideing the lower control arm now if its frozen because of rust or bad weather good luck trying to get it to move...
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 422
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From: Washington Crossing, PA
Originally Posted by mitchntx
Car is at stock ride height, I assume...
I have wanted to lower the car for some time. Not only to lower the CG, but mostly to remove ~48 square inches of air from underneath the car. Maybe it's time?
The upper A-Arm is significantly shorter than the lower ... less than 1/2 the length.
However, from the centerline of the car, the upper attaching points are slightly further apart than the lowers.
However, from the centerline of the car, the upper attaching points are slightly further apart than the lowers.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 422
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From: Washington Crossing, PA
Originally Posted by mitchntx
The upper A-Arm is significantly shorter than the lower ... less than 1/2 the length.
Another question I have, though, is further investigation of this topic implies that lowering all around results in a suboptimal rear LCA geometry. Some have advocated relocating the LCA mounts to recover this geometry. Any experience with this?
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