Panhard opinion
Panhard opinion Well anyone who hasnt got one but has thought about it. I just did it in a gravel driveway on my back with minimal tools in no time. Its a huge difference just in look compared to the stamped steel stock peice. Have a look and tell me which one you would choose. Now go get one.
Originally Posted by stang killer
I have a rod ended one that im looking to upgrade to the LG version soon. The one on there now had the cheap rod ends.
Originally Posted by stang killer
I have a rod ended one that im looking to upgrade to the LG version soon. The one on there now had the cheap rod ends.
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
Take it from somebody that's been down that road...no matter what kinda rod end you use, it will eventually end up rattling.
Are you talking about the PHR or the LCA's? There is a big difference between the two.
Basically your right. Eventually all rod ends will rattle because they are wearable parts. They need to be replaced as they wear. Weather they last 2 months or 2 years depends on the quality.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by JasonWW
Just replace your current rod ends with good ones. Why would you need to replace the bar itself?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by stang killer
paint is peeling and its starting to rust and what not. Im either gona replace it, or take it somewhere and get it powdercoated again.
Originally Posted by JasonWW
What rod ends did you try?
Are you talking about the PHR or the LCA's? There is a big difference between the two.
Basically your right. Eventually all rod ends will rattle because they are wearable parts. They need to be replaced as they wear. Weather they last 2 months or 2 years depends on the quality.
Are you talking about the PHR or the LCA's? There is a big difference between the two.
Basically your right. Eventually all rod ends will rattle because they are wearable parts. They need to be replaced as they wear. Weather they last 2 months or 2 years depends on the quality.
I must say that I'm not willing to try rod ends again unless I'm going to the track. They just start rattling too fast for my liking. So I'll keep my poly/poly pieces in the car, and enjoy a nice, quiet ride. Hell, even my LG torque arm is rattling after three months. It is next to go...
I've run many types of rod ends on my PHB. I tried a BMR PHB with the "cheap" teflon lined ends that were on it. It wasn't too noisy (the LCA's sure were though). I built a prototype with non lined rod ends. The ends would rattle when you shook them in with your hand (like a baby's rattle), but they were not too noisy (though they should have been). I then went to the QA1 XMR series (LG Motorsports can order them for you) and they are silent, even after street use and several autocross events. The PHB makes no noise, none.
LCA's are much more picky about worn rod ends than PHB's are. I'd still suggest a good quality PHB with rod ends, even for street use.
LCA's are much more picky about worn rod ends than PHB's are. I'd still suggest a good quality PHB with rod ends, even for street use.
Originally Posted by trackbird
I then went to the QA1 XMR series (LG Motorsports can order them for you) and they are silent, even after street use and several autocross events. The PHB makes no noise, none.
My LGM PHB with rod ends have been on the car for 2 years and my LGM poly/rod LCAs have been on the car for 4 years.
At slow speeds and a washboard road, I am just now beginning to detect some noise, as long as the radio is off and windows are rolled up with no AC blower running.
SSU'S Vice Mod
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 0
From: Hazard Co. Maryland
Mitchntx and Trackbird...you two are the handeling breaking gurus, and I've yet to ascertain what the rod ends gain you. Does it keep things from binding as bad and allow for more adjustment in adjustable LCA and PHR? I'm the kind of person that can live with noise for improved performance.
Rod ends help a lot on the LCA's.
The factory rear suspension is a type of 3 link design. When cornering the LCA's move up and down as well as twist. They are supposed to twist, you can't get around that.
So what the factory does is use a U shapped sheetmetal arm along with big rubber bushings to allow the twist.
Poly bushed LCA's are so much more rigid that when they try and twist, they end up binding which makes the arms not want to move up and down smoothly. Under these conditions it makes the rear feel like the springs suddenly got a lot stiffer and that causes the rear to get loose.
Having at least one rod end will alleviate that twisting bind and allow the LCA's to move up and down smoothly like they are supposed to.
This relatively new design Jon A came up with is supposed to be the best of both worlds. If I ever get the money for LCA's, I'm going to make a set like this.
As far as rod ends on the PHR, they mainly get rid of the slack which makes the rear more solid feeling and less sloppy.
The factory rear suspension is a type of 3 link design. When cornering the LCA's move up and down as well as twist. They are supposed to twist, you can't get around that.
So what the factory does is use a U shapped sheetmetal arm along with big rubber bushings to allow the twist.
Poly bushed LCA's are so much more rigid that when they try and twist, they end up binding which makes the arms not want to move up and down smoothly. Under these conditions it makes the rear feel like the springs suddenly got a lot stiffer and that causes the rear to get loose.
Having at least one rod end will alleviate that twisting bind and allow the LCA's to move up and down smoothly like they are supposed to.
This relatively new design Jon A came up with is supposed to be the best of both worlds. If I ever get the money for LCA's, I'm going to make a set like this.
As far as rod ends on the PHR, they mainly get rid of the slack which makes the rear more solid feeling and less sloppy.
Originally Posted by JasonWW
This relatively new design
All Jon did was incorporate a screw in poly bushing ... innovative maybe, new ... I don't think so.
sb427f-car I appreciate the vote of confidence.
However, I do not consider myself an expert ... far from it, actually.
I'm too old and set in my ways to argue details of a personal setup. What I might tell you which works for me, would absolutely suck when installed on your car.
That's why there are 2 camps when it comes to rod ends. Many have had a single bad experience and therefore proclaim all are noisey. I realize there are exceptions and they are duly noted.
The only advice I will give is for you to find a vendor willing to give you a money back guarantee. If they are noisey when you put them on, you get your money back.
If a vendor stands behind their product, proclaiming they are "the best" then they should by God stand behind them. And typically a vendor that builds and tests the stuff will do this. Resellers and drop shippers won't.
If they refuse, move on.
Give LG Motorsports a try or UMI Performance. I am sold on LGM for superior products and standing behind them and am impressed with Ryan's (UMI Performance) willingness to take constructive feedback to amke improvements in their products.
SSU'S Vice Mod
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 0
From: Hazard Co. Maryland
Originally Posted by mitchntx
Define "relatively new" ... I've had LGM poly/rod LCAs on my TA for 4 years.
All Jon did was incorporate a screw in poly bushing ... innovative maybe, new ... I don't think so.
sb427f-car I appreciate the vote of confidence.
However, I do not consider myself an expert ... far from it, actually.
I'm too old and set in my ways to argue details of a personal setup. What I might tell you which works for me, would absolutely suck when installed on your car.
That's why there are 2 camps when it comes to rod ends. Many have had a single bad experience and therefore proclaim all are noisey. I realize there are exceptions and they are duly noted.
The only advice I will give is for you to find a vendor willing to give you a money back guarantee. If they are noisey when you put them on, you get your money back.
If a vendor stands behind their product, proclaiming they are "the best" then they should by God stand behind them. And typically a vendor that builds and tests the stuff will do this. Resellers and drop shippers won't.
If they refuse, move on.
Give LG Motorsports a try or UMI Performance. I am sold on LGM for superior products and standing behind them and am impressed with Ryan's (UMI Performance) willingness to take constructive feedback to amke improvements in their products.
All Jon did was incorporate a screw in poly bushing ... innovative maybe, new ... I don't think so.
sb427f-car I appreciate the vote of confidence.
However, I do not consider myself an expert ... far from it, actually.
I'm too old and set in my ways to argue details of a personal setup. What I might tell you which works for me, would absolutely suck when installed on your car.
That's why there are 2 camps when it comes to rod ends. Many have had a single bad experience and therefore proclaim all are noisey. I realize there are exceptions and they are duly noted.
The only advice I will give is for you to find a vendor willing to give you a money back guarantee. If they are noisey when you put them on, you get your money back.
If a vendor stands behind their product, proclaiming they are "the best" then they should by God stand behind them. And typically a vendor that builds and tests the stuff will do this. Resellers and drop shippers won't.
If they refuse, move on.
Give LG Motorsports a try or UMI Performance. I am sold on LGM for superior products and standing behind them and am impressed with Ryan's (UMI Performance) willingness to take constructive feedback to amke improvements in their products.
Look again Mitch. That is a thin rubber bushing, not poly. It's able to soak up the vibrations while not creating a lot of slop.
(It is imperative they be torqued with the suspension loaded, as you can imagine)
Jon talks about them here:
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=3&t=3553&
(It is imperative they be torqued with the suspension loaded, as you can imagine)
Jon talks about them here:
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=3&t=3553&