Alignment specs ?
Alignment specs ? Can some one take a look at my alignment specs and tell me what needs to be done , the car is driven 95% on the highway and I don’t drive like miss daisy’s in the car with me 
I see 100 mph+(I like 130mph for some reason 
) for short romps almost every day 
it’s a daily driver no track time at all, its just a street machine or a Highway Star as I like to call her. From all the specs I have been seeing for high speed stability it should be toe in and a lot of neg., camber, but the guy who did the alignment said to try these settings and if I don’t like it bring it back. Well I don’t like it, so it’s going back. It seems to be squirrelly over 55mph and tram lines more than before, 
on the street its ok but at speed it sucks, not even gonna try 100mph like this The spes that I have found are
Castor: +4.5
Camber: -1.3 to –1.5 or more if you can get it
Toe: in 1/32
Do these numbers look good or no, the car has 275 / 40 /17 all the way around BMR lca’s adjustable pan rod, and sways back and front, Bilstien HD front and rear and stock springs for that 4x4 look Headers and bad roads so she stays stock height.
This is what was done, any and all input would be great
I see 100 mph+(I like 130mph for some reason ) for short romps almost every day it’s a daily driver no track time at all, its just a street machine or a Highway Star as I like to call her. From all the specs I have been seeing for high speed stability it should be toe in and a lot of neg., camber, but the guy who did the alignment said to try these settings and if I don’t like it bring it back. Well I don’t like it, so it’s going back. It seems to be squirrelly over 55mph and tram lines more than before, on the street its ok but at speed it sucks, not even gonna try 100mph like this The spes that I have found are Castor: +4.5
Camber: -1.3 to –1.5 or more if you can get it
Toe: in 1/32
Do these numbers look good or no, the car has 275 / 40 /17 all the way around BMR lca’s adjustable pan rod, and sways back and front, Bilstien HD front and rear and stock springs for that 4x4 look
Headers and bad roads so she stays stock height. This is what was done, any and all input would be great
Thanks for the reply , any input on the rear also should I try and get them to set that closer to 0 or does that look good what he did . I know there is not much to play with back their ,but the pan rod . Any one else got some input on this, looking for all the help I can get ,need to go back today
not much they can do unless you have adjustable lower contol arms. maybe play with your track bar to see if it can get your thrust angle to zero. but then they'd have to redo the front. depends on if you have time for them to play around with it. let me know how things turn out.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
From: oklahoma city
The last alignment printout is pretty close to my own specs, except I use 5 degrees caster for a little more high end stablity, with .5 each side on toe for .10 total toe and 0 camber. I have had my car since 2000 and have had ZERO tire wear problems, well except for doing burnouts, as for your thust angle that is about as good as it gets with a solid rear axle, leave it alone. I do alignments on all kinds of cars and trucks, five days a week for a national chain of shops and you have a good safe alignment. 
