what would be a good idea on lowering distance if im putting 17x11 with 315/35/17s on the back with an 50mm offset and 17x9.5 with some 275/40/17s up front with an offset of 56mm the fronts are coming with spacers .5 inch i think. i already know the bfh mod for the inner wheel well and rolling the fender, so how far down should i go with that size on there and what would be a good shock for those springs i hear a lot about bilsteins but they are damn expensive anything a little cheaper that is in the same ballpark in quality with them thanks for the help. as for the rest of the suspension i am planning on going bmr for most of it. extreme duty strut brace, extreme LCA's and relocation kit, BMR sway bars, extreme TQ arm kit, BMR APR with QA1 ends, PHR relocation kit, BMR boxed SFC's, and eventually tubular k-members and a-arms, and a upgraded driveshaft not sure which one yet
__________________

 

That's really an open ended question. While mine is lowered 1.5" for the front and 1.75" in the rear, it isn't exactly lowered in a manner for looks but lowered to ensure proper corner weights, wedge, and a slightly better Cg. The key thing is if you lower it, then lower it properly so you don't ride on the bumstops.

A key thing in 4th gen F-body handling is to have properly valved shocks with the spring rate and heights. If you don't have properly valved shocks, then not only your ride will suffer, but also handling. Bilsteins are actually what I consider the minimum to have. With proper valving, they will actually perform well and probably outlast the vehicle.

If you're trying to make that car become a corner carver, you need to reconsider the tubular A-arms and tubular K-members. FWIW, they won't really help you save much weight and they will really make your front end unstable. Practically all tubular upper A-arms that tout being 3 lbs. lighter, usually end up being slightly heavier than stock. There is not a significantly large load on the upper a-arm to warrant replacing it to supposedly make it stronger. The reason some do it is to gain some extreme caster and camber needed for AX and RR. Lower A-arms must bear a lot of weight, and those tubular ones don't really save much weight either and make for some unwieldy handling.

A shock tower brace isn't necessary because the chassis is heavily triangulated in the front to begin with, and to improve your body sway, just tackle the problem with a set of properly matched sway bars. SFC are really only good for making the vehicle easier to jack up on one corner, and 3 points help with extreme launching with a floorpan mounted TA. Despite what the consensus says, they will NOT dramatically stiffen the chassis as the chassis is already designed pretty well. I know, because if you read my sig, I have had that much hp/tq for about the time I removed my last SFC's, and my car is darn streetable. There are NO quarter-panel dimples and practically NO NVH. The only NHV left is the darn spare tire and spare tire scissors jack, and that's from the retainer screws not fitting properly. That's pretty amazing since my shocks are motorsport Bilsteins, however many don't need to use the ones I have. Again properly valved Bilstein yellows are usually good enough, however Koni SA's are better (but probably much more than what you desire to spend).

The consensus will despise what I mention, however many experienced RR and AXers will agree with what I am talking about.

 

I used BMR springs to lower 1 inch since I just wanted to take some of the 4x4 look away. I just centered up the rear with the adj. PHR and took a little off each bumpstop so I could lift the car by the body with the 11's. No BFH or fender rolling required. Plus with regular Bilstein HD's it rides like stock.