Wheel Alignment Specs Questions?
02-11-2006, 12:02 PM
#1
Wheel Alignment Specs Questions? Ok can I please get some advise from someone who knows alignment specs on the 4th Gen F bodys?
Im goin to start with this question.
How credible or accurate are these alignment specs I found on a LS1.com site.
LS1.com Recommended Alignment Settings
Camber (°) Caster (°) Toe (°)
factory +1(± 0.5) +3(± 0 .5) 0.15(± 0.5)
autox/street -0.5 to -1.0 +4.0 to +5.0 0.0
autox* -1.5 +4.0 to +5.0 1/16 inch toe out
Because I not really satisfied with the results I got from the second setup the autox/street specs.
Ive had it done now for bout 4 months and Its not working for me.
The car follows the imperfections on the road too much and its a lil too sensitive to any movements of the steering wheel.
I want it to handle good but I'm kinda tired of the way the car drives now. It feels like its gunna get away from me if I dont hold the wheel. I mean the car will literally want to turn anyway the road is grooved. Left or right .!!
So wat would help with that? Camber, Caster, Toe? Which one takes care of that?
Any help from the auto X people would be great thanx!!!!!!!!!!!
Im goin to start with this question.
How credible or accurate are these alignment specs I found on a LS1.com site.
LS1.com Recommended Alignment Settings
Camber (°) Caster (°) Toe (°)
factory +1(± 0.5) +3(± 0 .5) 0.15(± 0.5)
autox/street -0.5 to -1.0 +4.0 to +5.0 0.0
autox* -1.5 +4.0 to +5.0 1/16 inch toe out
Because I not really satisfied with the results I got from the second setup the autox/street specs.
Ive had it done now for bout 4 months and Its not working for me.
The car follows the imperfections on the road too much and its a lil too sensitive to any movements of the steering wheel.
I want it to handle good but I'm kinda tired of the way the car drives now. It feels like its gunna get away from me if I dont hold the wheel. I mean the car will literally want to turn anyway the road is grooved. Left or right .!!
So wat would help with that? Camber, Caster, Toe? Which one takes care of that?
Any help from the auto X people would be great thanx!!!!!!!!!!!
02-11-2006, 03:35 PM
#2
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I think you stubbed your toe Toe in/out is what dictates a vehicles stability. Toe in acts like snow skis on the slope when you make the triangle (it adds stability and decreases the cars desire to follow everything in the road. Toe out allows for quick directional changes.
I like to think of toe out like the forward swept wingspan of the x-29 fighter--its unstable, but it can turn on a dime. http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/a...-EC87-0182.jpg
For autocross/street, a toe set to 0 is usually the comprimise setup that allows quick turning with nominal stability. Since you don't like the way it is tracking, try bumping the toe back in to something like -0.5".
If you have any more questions, try doing some research... here is a good link
http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm
Just be careful you don't set the toe in too much or the tires will wear out quickly.
I like to think of toe out like the forward swept wingspan of the x-29 fighter--its unstable, but it can turn on a dime. http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/a...-EC87-0182.jpg
For autocross/street, a toe set to 0 is usually the comprimise setup that allows quick turning with nominal stability. Since you don't like the way it is tracking, try bumping the toe back in to something like -0.5".
If you have any more questions, try doing some research... here is a good link
http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm
Just be careful you don't set the toe in too much or the tires will wear out quickly.
Last edited by yodashut; 02-11-2006 at 03:37 PM. Reason: wrong fighter cited...
02-12-2006, 11:17 PM
#4
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Yeah, as far as I can tell, those setup numbers seem reasonable. I don't think dropping to 275's will make that big of a difference, its more likely you would feel the difference between one type of tire and another than the difference in size between those two.
For the record, the factory Helm manual (which if you plan on having your car for a while I heavily reccomend --www.helminc.com ~$120) reccomends the following:
Operation
Front Service Allowed Preferred
Caster 4.3 to 5.3 4.8
Cross Caster -0.7 to 0.7 0
Camber -0.1 to 0.9 0.4 (i think this will cause "factory understeer"
Cross Camber -0.7 to 0.7 0
Sum Toe -0.2 to 0.2 0
Steering Wheel Angle -3.5 to 3.5 0
Rear
Sum Toe-Refonly -0.3 to 0.3 0
Thrust Angle-'' -0.25 to 0.25 0
Note the rear data is not adjustable. Also, note that ride height changes (lowering springs) will affect caster and therfore steering effort.
For the record, the factory Helm manual (which if you plan on having your car for a while I heavily reccomend --www.helminc.com ~$120) reccomends the following:
Operation
Front Service Allowed Preferred
Caster 4.3 to 5.3 4.8
Cross Caster -0.7 to 0.7 0
Camber -0.1 to 0.9 0.4 (i think this will cause "factory understeer"
Cross Camber -0.7 to 0.7 0
Sum Toe -0.2 to 0.2 0
Steering Wheel Angle -3.5 to 3.5 0
Rear
Sum Toe-Refonly -0.3 to 0.3 0
Thrust Angle-'' -0.25 to 0.25 0
Note the rear data is not adjustable. Also, note that ride height changes (lowering springs) will affect caster and therfore steering effort.
02-13-2006, 03:09 PM
#5
yoda thanx for the link and the lesson of wheel alignment. It took me 2days to soak in the purpose of each item caster, camber and toe. It makes better sense now. Caster took the longest to visualize for sum reason. Appreciate the info.!!!
