weld or bolt SFC
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Haughton Louisiana
weld or bolt SFC i spoke with my machine shop and the guy said it is al lot of labor to weld my 3 point umi SFC i will be getting. would bolt on SFC be just much work as welding? i think he said like 250 plus dollars(not real sure, probably more) with torque arm and lower contol arms. they would have to see what they working with for a price.
I say take it to them and get a clear estimate. Also, if you plan on welding ANY SFC, you'd better make sure that your chassis is both aligned near factory spec, and between their factory tolerances. The last thing needed when you weld a chassis modifying item is to discover that your body has undesirable deformations and a welded brace makes it nearly permanent.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Haughton Louisiana
yeah i fear that the car has gone to long because my pass. side door pops loud when opened on the front panel. everytime someone rides they put there knee in the front of the door and pull slightly on top of front panel. also my rear back pass. side panel looks like its separating closer to the bumper
Those problems would most likely be caused by really hard launches, and not by what you mentioned. The door locks and joints probably need to lubricated and the rear bumper needs to be refitted if anything. Your passenger side door problem and your separation in the rear back side will not be solved by SFC's alone, that's if they really could (many advertisements have a subliminal way of exaggerating what SFC's do).
What I'm referring to is right down to the chassis itself. Your SOTP or hands CANNOT detect those things, unless the car is absolutely pushed to it's limit on either an autocross course, road course, or at a drag strip. Unless you have a racing seat with a harness, only your eyes will be able to witness this phenomenon if you are using your body's senses. What is felt is down to poor shock valving, not the chassis itself.
I highly suggest to get the car on a frame alignment machine (not suspension alignment lift) at an auto body shop, and have the dimensions checked before installing SFC's, that way accurate measurements are recorded and they can tell you whether any problems they detect are worth repairing or not. If it has a clean bill of health, then you can opt to put them on. If anybody else puts them on, they need to "dry fit" at least twice before welding to ensure that it is a working fit, otherwise many troubles will arise several thousand miles later.
What I'm referring to is right down to the chassis itself. Your SOTP or hands CANNOT detect those things, unless the car is absolutely pushed to it's limit on either an autocross course, road course, or at a drag strip. Unless you have a racing seat with a harness, only your eyes will be able to witness this phenomenon if you are using your body's senses. What is felt is down to poor shock valving, not the chassis itself.
I highly suggest to get the car on a frame alignment machine (not suspension alignment lift) at an auto body shop, and have the dimensions checked before installing SFC's, that way accurate measurements are recorded and they can tell you whether any problems they detect are worth repairing or not. If it has a clean bill of health, then you can opt to put them on. If anybody else puts them on, they need to "dry fit" at least twice before welding to ensure that it is a working fit, otherwise many troubles will arise several thousand miles later.
