Front wheels stud install write up??
Front wheels stud install write up?? Hello yall. Today one of my buddies let me borrow there skinny tires to run at the drag strip. He didnt know one of the lug nuts he gave me were slightly damaged.
While I was putting on one of the skinnies and using the lug nuts one of the lug nuts did not want to spin on freely,so i decided to not to run them and removed the weird lug nut.
I placed on my street tires and now on the wheel stud that i placed the weird lug nut on feels tight the first couple of turns then spins freely. I am thinking I should change this wheel stud because it doesnt feel good the first couple spins then it feels okay. Does anybody have a install write up?
While I was putting on one of the skinnies and using the lug nuts one of the lug nuts did not want to spin on freely,so i decided to not to run them and removed the weird lug nut.
I placed on my street tires and now on the wheel stud that i placed the weird lug nut on feels tight the first couple of turns then spins freely. I am thinking I should change this wheel stud because it doesnt feel good the first couple spins then it feels okay. Does anybody have a install write up?
I've already replaced most of mine do to them being stripped by shops that inssit on using inpact tools to tighten your lugs 
Basically, you remove the wheel, remove the caliper, remove the caliper mounting bracket, remove the rotor, beat the offending stud out with a hammer from the side of the hub facing you, place the new stud into hub from behind, install a lug nut onto the stud, tighten the nut down until it pulls the stud the entire way into the hub, remove the nut, put everything back together in reverse.
You could go to the trouble of removing the hub entirely and then press the stud in/out - but the method I have described above is how I have seen it done by GM Tech's at the dealer and is actually much quicker.
-Jay-
Basically, you remove the wheel, remove the caliper, remove the caliper mounting bracket, remove the rotor, beat the offending stud out with a hammer from the side of the hub facing you, place the new stud into hub from behind, install a lug nut onto the stud, tighten the nut down until it pulls the stud the entire way into the hub, remove the nut, put everything back together in reverse.
You could go to the trouble of removing the hub entirely and then press the stud in/out - but the method I have described above is how I have seen it done by GM Tech's at the dealer and is actually much quicker.
-Jay-
I wouldn't beat the stud out with the hub on the car. That would really hurt the bearings.
Once the rotor is off, there are 4 bolts on the backside of the knuckle that keep the hub assembly in place. Remove them and the hub assy should come right out.
Place the the face of the hub on a solid surface and THEN beat out the stud with a BFH.
Replace the stud using a lugnut as described.
However, place a couple washers on the stud before tightening. Many times, the knurl on the wheel stud is deeper that the thickness of the hub face. You will bottom out the lugnut on the knurl and not get the stud pulled all the way in.
Use lots of spray lube to keep from galling the threads.
Replace the lugnut. You have used WAY more torque than it was designed to use.
Once the rotor is off, there are 4 bolts on the backside of the knuckle that keep the hub assembly in place. Remove them and the hub assy should come right out.
Place the the face of the hub on a solid surface and THEN beat out the stud with a BFH.
Replace the stud using a lugnut as described.
However, place a couple washers on the stud before tightening. Many times, the knurl on the wheel stud is deeper that the thickness of the hub face. You will bottom out the lugnut on the knurl and not get the stud pulled all the way in.
Use lots of spray lube to keep from galling the threads.
Replace the lugnut. You have used WAY more torque than it was designed to use.
Originally Posted by mitchntx
However, place a couple washers on the stud before tightening. Many times, the knurl on the wheel stud is deeper that the thickness of the hub face. You will bottom out the lugnut on the knurl and not get the stud pulled all the way in.
Replace the lugnut. You have used WAY more torque than it was designed to use.
Replace the lugnut. You have used WAY more torque than it was designed to use.
The washers are definitely necessary... but plan on replacing those too cuz after during 1 or 2 studs they get all warped from so much torque.
Stock lugnuts are great for using for this purpose, but yeah they are definitely junk afterwards.
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Spring Hill, TN
Well, I did this once but didn't use your approved approach. I just hammered the puppy out without removing the rotor or the brake caliper...just took off the wheel.
Then I pulled the new one in using the lug nut, but to be honest the tension needed was nowhere near the 100lb/ft or so that we torque lug nuts to anyway. So in my experience the installation of the lug (forget my method of removing it!) did not require trashing the lug nut or using washers.
Note: I only pulled it in with the lug far enough to make a good purchase through the rim and then tightened it up on the wheel..again, never needing to exceed the torque specs to finish pulling the lug in.
Then I pulled the new one in using the lug nut, but to be honest the tension needed was nowhere near the 100lb/ft or so that we torque lug nuts to anyway. So in my experience the installation of the lug (forget my method of removing it!) did not require trashing the lug nut or using washers.
Note: I only pulled it in with the lug far enough to make a good purchase through the rim and then tightened it up on the wheel..again, never needing to exceed the torque specs to finish pulling the lug in.
