96redcamaro

iTrader: (1)

I am building a 383 that should be done in about 2 months, my goal for the motor is 450 to the ground, then a 100 or 150 shot down the road. I wanted to go ahead and start buying stuff that will help with traction. everything is stock right now. i dont want to spend money i dont need to. like overkill. i was looking at some BMR pieces. what would you guys recomend? i need to know everything i need to buy, i am not a suspension geek or anything. all input is much appriciated

01bird58

iTrader: (9)

Well your gona be putting down some serious power and no question you will need a new rear end. Now, you will need to decide whether you want to go with a 12 bolt or 9" Ford, something I am undecided myself which path I will take. From what I have gathered a 12 bolt is better for daily driving but not as bullet proof as a 9", however, the 9" is heavier which robs horsepower.

As far as other supporting suspension pieces it wud be good to invest in Lower Control Arms being my brother broke his on the stock 10 bolt with 425 to the wheels. I would also recommend an upgraded torque arm. (make sure you use Grade 8 nuts bolts in installation, I believe its called, or you will tear right through them)I would say this is the bear minimum requirements needed to get away with having some fun and not trashing parts. Of course later on you can do springs/shocks, K-members etc. later on to squeeze the most outta your 60'ft and power.

steve-d

iTrader: (7)

What is your intended use? Road course, Auto Cross, street?

Your answers will result is differing recommendations.

Steve

96redcamaro

iTrader: (1)

My car is going to be a street strip car. and i also am torn between the 9" or the 12 bolt, but i will make that decition later.

Honda Hunter

iTrader: (8)

Here is my opinion based on my 383 expierience. Sticky tires, qa1 shocks all the way around with stock springs in back and street strip spring rate up front, LCA's, relocation brackets, PHB, TQ arm bar, move battery to the trunk, subframe connectors. I have all of this except the tq arm, front shocks and springs, and battery relocator. Plan on ordering that stuff today or tommorow. I pulled 1.6's but not consistently. Once I get everything I'm shooting for 1.4's

96redcamaro

iTrader: (1)

sorry for the ignorance but what is PHB? i know what the rest is. its just i dont think i have ever herd of that one.

Honda Hunter

iTrader: (8)

Pan Hard Bar

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

It keeps your rearend from moving side to side. Its mounted to the rearend on i beleive the drivers side, and comes up at an angle to the body on the passenger. Just keeps the tires centered in the wheelwells mostly. If you wanna fit all the tire you possibly can an adjustable one comes in handy.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Your gona have a lot of trouble hooking/not breaking running a stroker motor with 4.10's in a 10 bolt. Id adress that first.

01bird58

iTrader: (9)

^yea but isnt that the catch, once he starts hooking thats when he will break. So make it stong then hook.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

What I was getitng at was with the added TQ form the added stroke, and the TQ multiplication from the 4.10's hes pretty much not gona hook unless hes on a sticky tire and that = death on a 10 bolt. But I say keep it simple. Start off with lower control arms, relocation brackets, and a TQ arm.

mike#9

iTrader: (3)

Good heavy duty Torque Arm, LCA's w/relocation brackets, Adj. Panhard Rod, Subframe Connectors......and get that rear end!!!

96redcamaro

iTrader: (1)

if i get QA1's should i get single, or double adjustable. or different on front and back. also the same on the torque arms, adj or not. i will get adjustable PHB. thanks for all the input.

Honda Hunter

iTrader: (8)

If you can afford it get double adjustable shocks up front and single rear. Also get a adjustable tq arm.