to camber or not to camber......
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: ATLANTA
to camber or not to camber...... I ordered a set of ground control coilovers, I am gonna slam my SS as much as I possibly, can, I dont know anything about suspension, My friend has an avenger with coilovers and he said he had to get a camber kit,,, how much do they cost, and where could I go about getting one?
Re: to camber or not to camber...... You do not need to purchase a camber kit. Our cars have a live rear axle, and as such the camber will not change when the car is lowered.
The front camber will not change noticeably until you drop the car lower than 2". At this point you will start to develop a noticeable negative camber at the front two tires (top of the tire slants towards the chasis). This, however, is not always bad. A slight negative camber can actually be beneficial under heavy cornering... depending on your setup.
What they don't tell you when you lower your car:
I don't know if you are getting both spings and shocks, but if you just change your springs when you lower your car, and not your shocks, you will shorten your rear shock travel to a point that the bump stop on the shock is going to become a problem. ie. when you hit big bumps you are going to nail the bump stop... which is very loud and not good.
Also if you are lowing the car, it is a good idea to purchase a set of Lower Control Arm relocation brackets (and for that matter get rid of the stock LCA's). Without them, once the car is lowered, your rear axle may have a tendency to hop during burnouts or heavy acceleration. This hopping really, really, shortens your rearend life (ask me how I know).
And lastly, 'they' say it is a good idea to get an adjustable panhard bar so that you may have your rearend centered after lowing. I bought one, but never really noticed a difference.
The front camber will not change noticeably until you drop the car lower than 2". At this point you will start to develop a noticeable negative camber at the front two tires (top of the tire slants towards the chasis). This, however, is not always bad. A slight negative camber can actually be beneficial under heavy cornering... depending on your setup.
What they don't tell you when you lower your car:
I don't know if you are getting both spings and shocks, but if you just change your springs when you lower your car, and not your shocks, you will shorten your rear shock travel to a point that the bump stop on the shock is going to become a problem. ie. when you hit big bumps you are going to nail the bump stop... which is very loud and not good.
Also if you are lowing the car, it is a good idea to purchase a set of Lower Control Arm relocation brackets (and for that matter get rid of the stock LCA's). Without them, once the car is lowered, your rear axle may have a tendency to hop during burnouts or heavy acceleration. This hopping really, really, shortens your rearend life (ask me how I know).
And lastly, 'they' say it is a good idea to get an adjustable panhard bar so that you may have your rearend centered after lowing. I bought one, but never really noticed a difference.
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,524
Likes: 0
From: ATLANTA
Re: to camber or not to camber...... thanks a ton , you have made tons of things clear for me now, I was just gonna buy the coilovers, Ill buy the new shocks, and the lower control arms, thanks so much!
