I live in houston where it rains all the time and my rotors always warp to hell. I am so sick of this i want to invest in a Bear or Wilwood slotted and cross drilled rotor setup. My question is, will expensive slotted and cross drilled rotors warp like the stock ones or power slots? 850.00 is a lot to spen on rotors to have them just eventually warp. This will be my 4th time to turn my rotors and i have 22k on my car.

 

Get new set of stockers, I beat the Sh#t out of my stockers with gm durastop pads autoxing and street driving, no warp ever. Each time you turn the rotors they get easier to warp as you have removed metal. KVR I heard sells blanks that look like stocker but are made of better metal and resist warping better. The slots and cross drilling are for looks only. Modern pads do not outgas like older pads, and the holes just allow cracks to form easier, with no increase in braking. Bear will tell you this, and does not recommend drilling or slotting for performance reasons, looks only.

 

Depending on the year 1998 - 2000 it is a known fact that GM had a bad bunch of rotors and there is a alert on them.

 

What is the difference between stock rotors and "1LE" rotors? Never heard of 1LE rotors.

Also, I tried the KVR's, they didn't warp, just cracked so bad that they became big expensive paper wieghts.

I am now running the $90 a pair Autozone rotors. So far, 15k miles and one Autox event no warping.
If they are disposable, may as well buy the cheap ones!

Be sure to torque lug nuts 100 lb-ft, as stated before.

 

Had my rotors replaced on both my '99 SS and my '00 WS6..they both warped w/in a year of having the cars

 

Another common cause for warping is not torquing your lugs to 100# when re-mounting wheels & tires. I use stock 1LE rotors w/durastops, auto-x, 60k on the clock and no warping.

 

There is another phenomenon that I believe promotes warpage ... temperature shock.

These cars have 2 piston calipers with big swept area pads. They also weigh in at a svelt 3700+. That's a LOT of mass to stop.

After making a 100+ 1/4 mile pass and after sitting in the staging lanes for 30 minutes or more, the brake rotors are absolutely cold. After that pass, you stab the brakes to make the turn in. You are adding a LOT of heat in very short order, only to go sit in the staging lanes and begin the cycle again.

Tooling down the hiway at 70+mph and stab the brakes for a dumbass SUV pilot ...

I believe this is a heavy contributor to the problem.

 

In the two years I;ve had to 2000 Z the stock rotors warped after two relatively common "avoid the idiot" occurances. After reading the Boards I decided to hold out for the Baer Eradispeeds. Got about the first set that MTI put on a car and have been absolutely perfect since. We did the Hawk pads at the same time. They took some time to bed in. Seemed "slipery" at first. I've found since that, they just feel that way as you warm them up after setting over a period long enough to completely cool. If I were to do it again I'd stick with stock pads 'till I had the Eradispeeds a while. You can easily change to different pads any time later.

 

The Eradispeeds are
1) Guaranteed against warpage
2) The cross-drilling was a weight-saving and looks mod, but the holes are CAST, not drilled. This eliminates the cracking risk of drilled rotors.

I've only had them for a couple of thousand miles, but they are working very very well without even a hint of warpage. My old stock rotors warped so badly when I replaced them that they literally shook off my watch band once <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />