w02ramair

iTrader: (3)

1.) Does anyone have any good numbers for a front end alignment? I just got through putting on my tubular lower a-arms. And I want to make sure that Sears does it right.

2.) Is the factory alignment good specs to go by or can I tell the Sears' guy to do something different?

Also since the hydroplaning incident my steering wheel is off key a little bit. It also is harder to steer when I am backing up...not sure on that one but its true. I checked the power steering reseviour and it is still full.

w02ramair

iTrader: (3)

Well i found the awnser to both of the questions.

Stock is

Camber -0.5 degrees
Castre is +4.5 degrees
and Toe is 0.0

What was posted on another forum as quoting Sam Strano,

For light AutoX and Street

Camber -1 degrees
Caster Driver's Side +3 degrees Passenger Side +5 degrees
and Zero to 1/16" Toe in.

VIP1

You shouldn't have a 2* difference in caster between the driver's side and passenger side. You might be fighting the wheel to keep it straight (maybe not "fighting", but you get the idea).

Here is a recent post I made about alignments:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....52&postcount=2

w02ramair

iTrader: (3)

Well maybe he meant the two wheels should both be between 3 and 5 degrees.

ksuburban

If you have a nevitive 2 degree caster split the cars gona go to the left hard

w02ramair

iTrader: (3)

NASCAR man..lol

w02ramair

iTrader: (3)

Got her done. She had a bent tierod end and that was all. So of course the toe was out by a good bit but the caster and camber were only off by like .5 degrees off center and the drivers side was actually out of spec by like .2 or so. All in all not to bad. She handles a lot better now. I need to get new mounts for my front sway bar though since i bent the passenger side. Anyone know what all comes with a sway bar kit from Sam Strano?