Trac-Link users please come in...
#1
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I just acquired a Global West Trac-Link and have a few questions.
1. Have you had any other tourqe arms and how did they compare?
2. What driveshaft loop do you run with it?
3. Is there any special advice you can give me, that you have learned from your experience?
Thanks,
Bart
1. Have you had any other tourqe arms and how did they compare?
2. What driveshaft loop do you run with it?
3. Is there any special advice you can give me, that you have learned from your experience?
Thanks,
Bart
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Speedfreaks101:
<strong>Does anyone know anybody using the Trac-Link?
Later,
Bart</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">My buddy has one on his 3rd gen and it increased the ride harshness significantly. However it also reduced the brake dive by more than half and he claims better traction out of the turns (even though he hardly has traction even in a straight line). The system is awesome except for the fact that you have to drill holes in the floor board to mount the panel/brace.
He's not running a DS loop and the best advice I can offer is: do not expect it to fit perfect and you'll be fine. The bracket to mount the Trac-Link to the rear end housing did not fit well (it was very tight).
<strong>Does anyone know anybody using the Trac-Link?
Later,
Bart</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">My buddy has one on his 3rd gen and it increased the ride harshness significantly. However it also reduced the brake dive by more than half and he claims better traction out of the turns (even though he hardly has traction even in a straight line). The system is awesome except for the fact that you have to drill holes in the floor board to mount the panel/brace.
He's not running a DS loop and the best advice I can offer is: do not expect it to fit perfect and you'll be fine. The bracket to mount the Trac-Link to the rear end housing did not fit well (it was very tight).
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It's a good piece, although yes you will have to drill holes in the car. I had one on my last ls1 car. It installed in 3-4 hours. Be careful when you drill the holes through the floorpan as the ABS sensor wires run through the carpet right above.
And good luck adjusting the pinion angle....
And good luck adjusting the pinion angle....
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I had a trac-link on my car a few years ago. I sold it to somebody in California - is it you Steve C? I did not feel that it greatly reduced brake dive, but it did offer much better traction out of the corners. I am extremely picky about vibrations and the trac-link caused some which is why I sold it. For what it is worth, I also sold my Borla a couple of years ago because the rigid mounting also caused vibrations.
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Yall mention traction out of corners, but does it also perform well in straight line traction? I wanted a tourque arm that did not compromise drivability for traction, was I correct in choosing this torque arm?
Thank You,
Bart
Thank You,
Bart
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Can't answer if you made the right decision with the Trac-Link - everyones "trade off" values are different. I can say that I do not remember much of a difference with straight line traction. I run handling oriented tires which are not "R" compound.
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I found that straightline traction wasn't that terrific.. I mean it all depends on how much pinion angle you run.
And that was the pain with the traclink... it was looooong and awkward to change the pinion angle, because every time you have to take off the section that mounts to the pumpkin and play with the rod ends, put it back on and make your measurements.
Plus the if you chose anything but 0 deg... it would cause horrible vibrations... which led to driveshaft u-joint wear and shifter rattles.
I personally think there are better arms for straight line.. basically just a beefed up version of the stock arm is good.
for corner exit, the traclink worked well. Even brake dive worked well... but if you didn't have rebound adjustment in the rear shock or a big brake in the front.. you would get lots of wheel hop...
And that was the pain with the traclink... it was looooong and awkward to change the pinion angle, because every time you have to take off the section that mounts to the pumpkin and play with the rod ends, put it back on and make your measurements.
Plus the if you chose anything but 0 deg... it would cause horrible vibrations... which led to driveshaft u-joint wear and shifter rattles.
I personally think there are better arms for straight line.. basically just a beefed up version of the stock arm is good.
for corner exit, the traclink worked well. Even brake dive worked well... but if you didn't have rebound adjustment in the rear shock or a big brake in the front.. you would get lots of wheel hop...
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I'm have the the same problems Gary mentioned with his earlier setup.
For one my pinion angle is at a -4 and i have zero clearance with my driver's side y pipe and the torque arm. Tons of scrapage.
I was satsified with the arm at first,but yeah the trade offs, i need more ground clearance and hearing the exaust resonate through the floor board gets pretty old.
Henry98Z
GW Trac link/Borla/Pro-kit
For one my pinion angle is at a -4 and i have zero clearance with my driver's side y pipe and the torque arm. Tons of scrapage.
I was satsified with the arm at first,but yeah the trade offs, i need more ground clearance and hearing the exaust resonate through the floor board gets pretty old.
Henry98Z
GW Trac link/Borla/Pro-kit