Master cylinder
#1
Master cylinder
I think I need to try a new master cylinder and would like some advice about what to get.
I put Wilwoods on the 98 Z28 used high temp fluid, bled the lines. Took the car out for a good road test and after a while experienced fade.
We took the car back to a good shop and had the brakes bled, new bleeders installed, and the system checked. Went to Summit Point and when braking after a lap or 2, the brakes would fade. When I ask for more I would not get it. If I just touched the brakes gently once and then asked for hard braking it would be there. So, when I have to brake on the track I have to barely touch them and they work.
The system has been bled properly, so I am being told it has to be the master cylinder not being able to handle these brakes...... ? I would like to purchase a new one and need some advice.
Thanks for suggestions. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
I put Wilwoods on the 98 Z28 used high temp fluid, bled the lines. Took the car out for a good road test and after a while experienced fade.
We took the car back to a good shop and had the brakes bled, new bleeders installed, and the system checked. Went to Summit Point and when braking after a lap or 2, the brakes would fade. When I ask for more I would not get it. If I just touched the brakes gently once and then asked for hard braking it would be there. So, when I have to brake on the track I have to barely touch them and they work.
The system has been bled properly, so I am being told it has to be the master cylinder not being able to handle these brakes...... ? I would like to purchase a new one and need some advice.
Thanks for suggestions. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
#2
Re: Master cylinder
I know of systems using Brembo 6 piston kits, Movits,Prospeed, BAER ... the MC works just fine.
The obvious questions ...
What pads are you using?
What brake fluid are you using?
By fade, do you mean a hard pedal at normal height just no stopping power?
Or
Does the pedal begin to feel soft and spongy with the pedal engaging at varying heights ... BUT will eventually have the brakes engage?
If the pedal is hard, I think there are 2 things pssible ...
Glazed pads or a loss of vacum on the booster.
The obvious questions ...
What pads are you using?
What brake fluid are you using?
By fade, do you mean a hard pedal at normal height just no stopping power?
Or
Does the pedal begin to feel soft and spongy with the pedal engaging at varying heights ... BUT will eventually have the brakes engage?
If the pedal is hard, I think there are 2 things pssible ...
Glazed pads or a loss of vacum on the booster.
#3
Re: Master cylinder
I have heard some people talking saying that the 2001 and 2002 f-body have different m/c. I have wilwood 6piston on the front of my 2001 with no problems. If you buy a new master cylinder go with the Mcleod.
#4
Re: Master cylinder
i have the same problem with my 2000. I have wilwoods all around and I am using the Q pads in the back and the D's in the front (Q's are still on back order) I bleed the brakes real good too and I still get a low pedal. If i tap on them then brake it gets hard and everything is good. I am thinking it is the MC so maybe I should look into getting the Mcleod. let me know if you fix the problem.
#5
Re: Master cylinder
My pedal is always to stiff IMO 1/2-1" of pedal and they are almost locking. I let 2 of my friend drive it and didn't tell them about the brakes and when they hit the bracks they where complaining that "something is wrong with the brakes" it stops to hard and "if you didn't have ABS and hit the brakes hard you would be out of control". So if I am understanding you right this is not you guys's problem your pedal has to much play?
#6
Re: Master cylinder
My pedal feels the same as stock.
I had the E pads in for Summit and when I was having trouble we checked for leaks and changed the pads to T.
I put Wilwood fluild in before rr. I believe it is 570. I don't believe I boiled the fluid....
Exactly what happens is, I need to slow, begin breaking and the car will start slowing, I ask for more break and don't get it, it continues to break at the same pressure and the pedal goes more to the floor. I push more and get no more.
So, when I am going down the straights, I tap the brakes very quickly, just once and then they will work properly.
I agree with you, these brakes will stop so hard on the street when you slam them that anyone will think something is wrong. My ABS comes on while doing that but it has never come on at the track. I assume it may not be sensitive enough, if that is possible......
Thanks for the advice of the Mcleod, I'll check it out. I have to get something, the car goes to a shop in January.
I had the E pads in for Summit and when I was having trouble we checked for leaks and changed the pads to T.
I put Wilwood fluild in before rr. I believe it is 570. I don't believe I boiled the fluid....
Exactly what happens is, I need to slow, begin breaking and the car will start slowing, I ask for more break and don't get it, it continues to break at the same pressure and the pedal goes more to the floor. I push more and get no more.
So, when I am going down the straights, I tap the brakes very quickly, just once and then they will work properly.
I agree with you, these brakes will stop so hard on the street when you slam them that anyone will think something is wrong. My ABS comes on while doing that but it has never come on at the track. I assume it may not be sensitive enough, if that is possible......
Thanks for the advice of the Mcleod, I'll check it out. I have to get something, the car goes to a shop in January.