QA1 HAL shocks??
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 110
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Re: QA1 HAL shocks?? The front shocks have adjustable spring perches, so you could lower the nose, but what you want on the front is shorter stiffer springs so you don't bottom out with the reduced wheel travel. As 'lowering' goes, you'd be better off cutting the front factory springs.
The adjustment is there to fine tune the ride hieght.
DaveH
The adjustment is there to fine tune the ride hieght.
DaveH
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Re: QA1 HAL shocks?? You can run standard springs if you modify the spring perches. What that entails is putting a larger whole in them so they sit on the adjuster nut/jam nut combination. I just used a hole saw to make the wholes bigger. If you run Hal springs you dont need to modify anything because the springs sit directly on hte adjuster/jam nut combintation.
Gary
Gary
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From: Tinley Park
I know i'm bringing back an old post, but its better to search and add to an old one then start a new thread.
I just got my HAL QA1s put on tonight. The guy that did it for me has the ride hight in the front set real low (to low acually). There is about 2" - 2.5" left of thread. So i have a few questions. 1. When i higher the nose, do i have to get an alignment? 2. To change the ride hight, i just take the wheel off, use the wrench they give you and crank on it?
And the third question is with adjusting it as far as the 12 way settings go. There is a + and a - on the dials. When i'm at the track i want it "soft" in the back and "stiff" up front right? (so that the nose goes up and the rear sinks) On those shocks.... if that is the correct way to say it, would i want to click the dials twords the + or the - in the rear and then vis versa in the front?
Thanks.
I just got my HAL QA1s put on tonight. The guy that did it for me has the ride hight in the front set real low (to low acually). There is about 2" - 2.5" left of thread. So i have a few questions. 1. When i higher the nose, do i have to get an alignment? 2. To change the ride hight, i just take the wheel off, use the wrench they give you and crank on it?
And the third question is with adjusting it as far as the 12 way settings go. There is a + and a - on the dials. When i'm at the track i want it "soft" in the back and "stiff" up front right? (so that the nose goes up and the rear sinks) On those shocks.... if that is the correct way to say it, would i want to click the dials twords the + or the - in the rear and then vis versa in the front?
Thanks.
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Originally Posted by 95_Firehawk_Dude
I know i'm bringing back an old post, but its better to search and add to an old one then start a new thread.
1. When i higher the nose, do i have to get an alignment? 2. To change the ride hight, i just take the wheel off, use the wrench they give you and crank on it?
And the third question is with adjusting it as far as the 12 way settings go. There is a + and a - on the dials. When i'm at the track i want it "soft" in the back and "stiff" up front right? (so that the nose goes up and the rear sinks) On those shocks.... if that is the correct way to say it, would i want to click the dials twords the + or the - in the rear and then vis versa in the front?
Thanks.
1. When i higher the nose, do i have to get an alignment? 2. To change the ride hight, i just take the wheel off, use the wrench they give you and crank on it?
And the third question is with adjusting it as far as the 12 way settings go. There is a + and a - on the dials. When i'm at the track i want it "soft" in the back and "stiff" up front right? (so that the nose goes up and the rear sinks) On those shocks.... if that is the correct way to say it, would i want to click the dials twords the + or the - in the rear and then vis versa in the front?
Thanks.
- gets softer, + gets harder, you want the rears somewhere around 3-5 and the fronts around 2-4 generaly, you just have to go run it and adjust it.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 37
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That tool is almost worthless if it's the same one I've seen. You can modify a pair of standard channel locks with a grinder which work to a point. But the best thing I've found is the Larger Channel locks #212 which are for 3-5" pipe.
PM me if you need pictures. Settings are really dependant on your tires, power and traction issues etc... Normally you don't tighten the front to tight if your going for weight transfer. But there are situations were that may help. So..... give us some more info.
PM me if you need pictures. Settings are really dependant on your tires, power and traction issues etc... Normally you don't tighten the front to tight if your going for weight transfer. But there are situations were that may help. So..... give us some more info.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Tinley Park
Well there is not to much more info i have. Its basically stock power, w/ control arms in the rear, nitto 555s (not the DR) and minor mods such as TB bypass, cutout ect. Since its a firehawk it has the upgraded exhaust and all that bullshit. Here are the real numbers...
Last time at the track (and best time):
2.3 60' -- 13.6 ET @ 105MPH. Got it dynoed tonight acually.... 293.2RWHP and 309.5RWTQ.
I'm looking for basically a good setup to start out at the track with when i go back? Basic drag race setup isn't stiff in the front and soft in the back? What is typical setup? Reasons why?
Last time at the track (and best time):
2.3 60' -- 13.6 ET @ 105MPH. Got it dynoed tonight acually.... 293.2RWHP and 309.5RWTQ.
I'm looking for basically a good setup to start out at the track with when i go back? Basic drag race setup isn't stiff in the front and soft in the back? What is typical setup? Reasons why?
Originally Posted by 95_Firehawk_Dude
I'm looking for basically a good setup to start out at the track with when i go back? Basic drag race setup isn't stiff in the front and soft in the back? What is typical setup? Reasons why?
in the front im going to start with 3
the easiest way it to just do it, use the general starting point and see how the car responds,and make adjustments likewise. if it hooks hard stiffen up the rear a tad and try again.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Tinley Park
Originally Posted by SMOKIN01TA
for a stock power car 2 is soft 3-4 is normal
in the front im going to start with 3
the easiest way it to just do it, use the general starting point and see how the car responds,and make adjustments likewise. if it hooks hard stiffen up the rear a tad and try again.
in the front im going to start with 3
the easiest way it to just do it, use the general starting point and see how the car responds,and make adjustments likewise. if it hooks hard stiffen up the rear a tad and try again.
Thats all i need is a basic setup... then i can make a run and like you said, go from there.
Originally Posted by 95_Firehawk_Dude
So you mean start at something like 3 all the way around, or just in the rear? If just in the rear, what do i want the front set on?
Thats all i need is a basic setup... then i can make a run and like you said, go from there.
Thats all i need is a basic setup... then i can make a run and like you said, go from there.
you may want to try just using 4 in the rear and 3 up front, if it spins go to 3 in the rear and 2 up front and so on.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Tinley Park
Originally Posted by SMOKIN01TA
im starting with 4 drive rear 6 passenger rear and 3 up front. the difference in the back helps keep the passenger side from squating harder than the driver side when using a stock sway bar.
you may want to try just using 4 in the rear and 3 up front, if it spins go to 3 in the rear and 2 up front and so on.
you may want to try just using 4 in the rear and 3 up front, if it spins go to 3 in the rear and 2 up front and so on.
Originally Posted by 95_Firehawk_Dude
Thats for all the help. How come so soft in the front? When i think about it, i would think you would want it stiff in the front and soft in the rear.
