how and why is suspension adjusted? need help.
08-16-2006, 08:07 AM
#1
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how and why is suspension adjusted? need help. I just got the following suspension parts for my 1994 A4 Z28:
1-QA1 Front Shocks
2-QA1 300# front springs
3-QA1 Rear Shocks
4-BMR Adjustable lower control arms
5-BMR adjustable panhard bar
6-BMR Boxed Sub frame connectors
7-BMR Extreme Torque Arm
all these parts are adjustable, and I would like to get the most out of them, i of course know how to physically adjust them, but I want to know what to adjust and how much, most importantly why.
the car is mostly going to be used on streets, but it will see some drag racing, and auto cross.
thanks in advance.
1-QA1 Front Shocks
2-QA1 300# front springs
3-QA1 Rear Shocks
4-BMR Adjustable lower control arms
5-BMR adjustable panhard bar
6-BMR Boxed Sub frame connectors
7-BMR Extreme Torque Arm
all these parts are adjustable, and I would like to get the most out of them, i of course know how to physically adjust them, but I want to know what to adjust and how much, most importantly why.
the car is mostly going to be used on streets, but it will see some drag racing, and auto cross.
thanks in advance.
08-16-2006, 09:49 AM
#2
2 and 6 are not adjustable
1+3 are adjustable shocks. There are no magic settings; you as the driver need to try different settings and determine what's best for you. Settings for drag race, street and autox are completely different.
4 is for moving your rear end forward or backward. It needs adjusted occasionally if the rear is too far forward and you're trying to run big tires. For 98% of the folks, make the LCA the same length as stock and you're fine.
5 is for moving the rear end side to side. Again, if you're running big tires or lowered the rear 'may' need to be centered again. As soon as you lower the car the geometry is off. Only way to know is to measure to each tire and make sure it's even fender to fender.
7 is for adjusting pinion angle. This allows for greater 'bite' out of the hole. Most adjust pinion angle to a -2.
Do a search on 4,5 and 7 for more information than I provided.
1+3 are adjustable shocks. There are no magic settings; you as the driver need to try different settings and determine what's best for you. Settings for drag race, street and autox are completely different.
4 is for moving your rear end forward or backward. It needs adjusted occasionally if the rear is too far forward and you're trying to run big tires. For 98% of the folks, make the LCA the same length as stock and you're fine.
5 is for moving the rear end side to side. Again, if you're running big tires or lowered the rear 'may' need to be centered again. As soon as you lower the car the geometry is off. Only way to know is to measure to each tire and make sure it's even fender to fender.
7 is for adjusting pinion angle. This allows for greater 'bite' out of the hole. Most adjust pinion angle to a -2.
Do a search on 4,5 and 7 for more information than I provided.
08-16-2006, 09:41 PM
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I'm not being a smart-*** here. But, your questions are why this entire thread, some whole websites, books and even careers are started! My advice is to just search some of your terms and read until you fall asleep. Then repeat the next night. Call me in 2009!
08-17-2006, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 00 Trans Ram
I'm not being a smart-*** here. But, your questions are why this entire thread, some whole websites, books and even careers are started! My advice is to just search some of your terms and read until you fall asleep. Then repeat the next night. Call me in 2009!
your are being a smart ***, and a tool.
all I am asking is to know how to get the most out of these parts insted of taking the car to some every time i wana go to the track or to the strip.
08-18-2006, 09:52 AM
#6
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Adding to what Viper said:
* Adjustable LCAs allow you to adjust the rear axle forward/aft/diagonally.
* Adjustable PHB allows you to adjust the rear axle left/right.
* With both you can adjust the rear axle in all horizontal directions (left/right/forward/aft/diagonally) to center it under the car.
* Ajustable PHB isnt necessary for stock right hide, but is necessary when the ride height is changed (ex: lowering the car).
That being said....
I have stock right height, but I do have adjustable Spohn rod/poly PHB and LCAs. My rear was a bit off with the stock parts and is all straight now with the adjustables (adjusted by the mechanic during an alignment...you have to ask for it and may need to convince them to do it).
* Adjustable LCAs allow you to adjust the rear axle forward/aft/diagonally.
* Adjustable PHB allows you to adjust the rear axle left/right.
* With both you can adjust the rear axle in all horizontal directions (left/right/forward/aft/diagonally) to center it under the car.
* Ajustable PHB isnt necessary for stock right hide, but is necessary when the ride height is changed (ex: lowering the car).
That being said....
I have stock right height, but I do have adjustable Spohn rod/poly PHB and LCAs. My rear was a bit off with the stock parts and is all straight now with the adjustables (adjusted by the mechanic during an alignment...you have to ask for it and may need to convince them to do it).
08-18-2006, 11:01 AM
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No, actually, I wasn't. Viper and VIP 1 both have very good and succinct posts. However, that is like asking, "Daddy, where do babies come from?" and him answering, "Your mommy." It's true, and it is accurate - but it's not the whole story.
Heck, I've been doing this for years now, and I still can't tell you exactly why shocks work the way they do. I know the "how", just not the full "why".
So, I'm not going to get all huffy about being called a "tool." But I will ask that you be courteous when people give advice.
One last thing, you got a gazillion adjustable pieces-parts - good for you! I think the more adjustability the better. But, if you want to get the most out of them, you will be adjusting most of them before each event, and probably each run. I agree with not wanting someone else doing it, but you've got a lot of work ahead of you.
Heck, I've been doing this for years now, and I still can't tell you exactly why shocks work the way they do. I know the "how", just not the full "why".
So, I'm not going to get all huffy about being called a "tool." But I will ask that you be courteous when people give advice.
One last thing, you got a gazillion adjustable pieces-parts - good for you! I think the more adjustability the better. But, if you want to get the most out of them, you will be adjusting most of them before each event, and probably each run. I agree with not wanting someone else doing it, but you've got a lot of work ahead of you.
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08-18-2006, 09:16 PM
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Well I dont care if I come off as a smart ***.
All your questions could be answered in a search. If you can open your wallet to pay for the parts, you should be able to type some terms to find the info you need. Honestly, I would have done that research before you shelled out your money to pay for thoes parts.
All your questions could be answered in a search. If you can open your wallet to pay for the parts, you should be able to type some terms to find the info you need. Honestly, I would have done that research before you shelled out your money to pay for thoes parts.
