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Help deciphering spring info

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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 11:23 AM
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Default Help deciphering spring info

Ok I've got rates and I'm looking to improve my situation.

My rates are 85-191.

The 85 my guess effects how the car sits, the 191 is the resistance under load.?

So I'm looking at different rate springs that have good reviews under road racing conditions.

If I switched to a 140 - 180 I would be helping myself would I. Initially the car m,ight sit a little higher? but would squat more under load than what I have?

Am I interpreting that correctly?

Or would the initial difference between the 140 and 85 I currently have make the 180 not as soft?

No I dont know a thing about springs.
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 12:40 PM
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Or do I just need to replace them with the same? Do they "wear" like loose strength ?
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 08:53 PM
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First things first,

If you shall RR or PDX, you should definitely change your spring rates, however with me saying this, you need to look for two things:

1. Use springs with linear rates. Even though there are some progressive springs with less "progression" between the rates of the Lmin and the Lmax, you should really use linear rates as it can become difficult with any type of valving "adjustments" available to you (Koni SA) to adapt to the different spring rate progressions through out the spring length travel.

2. Take good note of your sway bar diameters as well, since if you decide to upgrade those, it too will affect overall corner spring rate.

3. Since you mention that you are looking more towards an RR and/or PDX app., you will need be aware of what bushings and/or bearings you have. By me stating this, you have to be careful not to have poly in locations where the least amount of bind needs to be present (e.g. front A-arms, rear trailing arms, PHB). The more bind you have in those areas, the more it will account for the overall spring rates induced on the corner, therefore it will be harder to determine your precise corner spring rate.

EDIT: 4. Spring rate and spring heights are really two different things. What you probably are looking for is less spring travel to occur during compression and rebound. With this, you need to determine what static ride height is feasible, then determine what Lmin and Lmax the springs should yield. With that said, the rates come into play as well as the proper valvings.

Last edited by Foxxtron; Sep 27, 2006 at 09:03 PM.
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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Sorry, I forgot to address this,

Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Or do I just need to replace them with the same? Do they "wear" like loose strength ?
While almost all springs will lose some maximum ride height, it's very rare that most springs today, especially those manufactured by quality manufacturers (e.g. Hyperco, Eibach) will lose their spring rate. If need be, you can always dyno your springs, however this is somewhat time consuming and is not cheap (unless you have access at no charge).
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Foxxtron
3. Since you mention that you are looking more towards an RR and/or PDX app., you will need be aware of what bushings and/or bearings you have.

EDIT: 4. Spring rate and spring heights are really two different things. What you probably are looking for is less spring travel to occur during compression and rebound. With this, you need to determine what static ride height is feasible, then determine what Lmin and Lmax the springs should yield. With that said, the rates come into play as well as the proper valvings.
I've got rod ends in the lca and phb.

The linear numbers I'll have to work on.

From what I gather what your saying is I need to measure and see the max compression I want to keep the body off the tires under load. The current ride height is good is they dont compress so far. Intersting;y the outer lip that isnt rolled has never come into contact and it looks like it should if it goes to far but it never has. Only the one side. Driver side has the inner rub issue.

Where to get linear springs? All I see is pro-rate and lowering advertised stuff.
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