MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

hey guys, my mods are below

I'm looking to run in the 11-12's. I only took the car to the track once this year with the mods and I had some wheel hop and couldn't hook worth a damn, even with the nitto's

I'll be moving to M/T ET Streets

I have Wolfe Racecraft SFC
BMR sway bars
and thats it for suspension

I was hoping to stick to BMR, I don't really care tho. I don't think I need anything adjustable (mainly because I'd probably adjust it wrong).

I want to get the torque arm off the transmission, as well as a new torque arm

what do you guys recommend? BMR has several options for the TA issue. Do I need LCA's? Panhard bars?



...a better driver?

Ouija

iTrader: (3)

I assume you are planning on primarily quarter mile and not road courses, so a tunnel mounted torque arm would be a better piece than just a torque arm relocation.

Lower control arms, and relocation brackets can help with wheel hop.

I know BMR makes all the stuff you are looking for.

I'd get a torque arm that has the included drive shaft safety loop.

Remember adjusting the torque arm to get the proper pinion angle is important for launching, and to not destroy u-joints.

I personally went with all UMI stuff since their price is great, parts are quality, and their customer service is second to none.

You might want to hit up Ryan @ UMI about any questions. He's laid up right now due to an accident but has others filling in for him so you will still get answers to your questions.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

yeah i'll be for 1/4 mile, but I don't want the thing to handle like a box either. I have relocation brackets on my Currie 9", but I didn't know if upgrading to BMR LCA's would help any.

BMR has 2 types of tunnel mounted torque arms, I didn't know which one was best. Also I already have a driveshaft safety loop.

do I really need to adjust the torque arm? I mean they make none adjustable ones, thats what I was planning on going with.

my driveshaft has also been upgraded

01sscam

UMI rear suspension here, FTW!

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

bump bump for more advice

Ouija

iTrader: (3)

Around here we have this cool guy named Bill Buck. If you buy the adjustable parts he'll happily set them up proper for you.

I know Madman does that as well, and I'm sure you can find someone in your area to do that for you. With the money you are spending I don't see a reason to go cheap on the adjustability. We're talking $10-50 maximum difference.

That's like buying a LS6 motor, and Nitrous kit, but not spending $20 on a FPSS or $10 on a filter.

That's my 2c.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

'eh good point, i agree

do i need a new panhard bar as well?

Ouija

iTrader: (3)

The only reason I know of for getting an adjustable panhard is if you need to re-center the rear. Typically rear ends become un-centered because of lowering.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

okay, i'll get a non-adjustable panhard since i'm not lowered, i slightly bent mine when i was installing my 9"

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

okay guys, heres my shoppin list, its all BMR


TUNNEL BRACE
Part #DTB001 $89.95
***is this really that important? or is the stock one okay?***

PANHARD RODS
PHR001 Standard non-adjustable $99.95
MPHR001 Chrome moly non-adjustable $134.95
**does this come with both of the rods? Do you think the moly is worth the extra $35? the car isn't lowered, nor will it be **



Control Arms
'race' or 'street' style?? I'm afraid the race style might be too much? But then again with that 9" and locker, the shakes like a tank anyways

should I go with adjustable on these? or just and adjustable Torque Arm??
MCA001 - Chrome moly "race only" adjustable control arms - $249.95 pair
MCA002 - Chrome moly "street/track" adjustable control arms - $189.95 pair
MTCA001 - Chrome moly tubular control arms w/poly bushings $159.95 pair



TORQUE ARM RELOCATION KIT
TCC006 98-02 F-Body with Manual transmission $249.95


BMR TORQUE ARMS -- ***is the moly worth the extra $140?***
TA001- Full Length Adjustable Torque 1982-2002 F-body $329.95
MTA001- Chrome Moly Full Length Adjustable Torque 1982-2002 F-body $469.95

so just for a torque arm and relocation kit, i'm looking at $580-720

OR
should I go with the Trak Pak? It's "universal" which sometimes means, doesn't fit worth a damn but its a lot cheaper then the TA and relocation kit combo. Is the Trak Pak better or worse?

BMR TRAK PAK©
Part # TPU001 Universal Trak Pak© $379.95

Ouija

iTrader: (3)

The only *real* reason to go chromeolly is for strength, but I had the extra money, so I splurged, getting everything in chromolly that I could.

There is weight savings, but that's minimal, and you aren't building an all out race car.

Most people that that go with suspension components don't like spherical rod ends on both sides because they ride like ****.

I went with spherical on one end and poly on the other. I don't mind the extra clunks, but many people hate rod ends on a daily driver.

I'm the crazy guy that's deleted traction control, and has all 3 washers in my shift kit. I told my transmission builder that of the three options I chose "bone jarring" as his description for my shifts.

2c

I'm not familiar with BMR's tunnel brace. Since my torque arm mounts there, I don't have that issue, and prior to my tq arm being there, I had a DS loop mounted there so I've always had something in that location.

I can't speak for the track pack as I have no experience with it.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

thanks Ouija,

how bad will the spherical rod ends really ride? I mean she clunks pretty good with the detroit locker in there anyways.

I too have deleted my TCS. Do you think the tunnel brace is really neccessary?? I mean $90 for that lil thing.

anybody have experience with the relocation or Trak Pak?

Ouija

iTrader: (3)

Having the Spherical/Rod combo I think that's around the edge of my limits for putting up with.

Of course only you can be the judge of what you will put up with.

I think if I went with a rod/rod setup I wouldn't be happy. My guestimate is that 20% of the people out there could handle a poly/rod setup for daily driving, and 5% would put up with rod/rod.

I'm betting 50% could handle poly/poly all day long, and less than 50% would be able to handle only rubber ends.

I normally adapt to how the car handles and sounds, versus making the car sound like a Cadillac. I'm one of those that is willing to sacrifice 80% comfort for handling/performance.

I went without a tunnel brace for at least a year and didn't notice any difference, but I didn't do any research into the engineering aspects of it.

I hope that helps you gauge your own opinions.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

thanks again Ouija

now why wont someone with an M6 chime in and tell me what they've found useful?? lol

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

The only REAL reason for CM is for weight. Strength is about the same. It all depends on budget really. You can easily get into 11s straight and true without all the highest dollar parts. Why get an adjustable TA. You just set it and forget it. And usually they get set to the same angle as the fixed units anyhow. I would recomend the adjustable stuff if you were 9s or better since the faster you go, the more that stuff is going to affect the car. As long as your LCA brackets are perfect and the rear is square under the car, you do not need adjustable LCAs or PHR. Some cheap tubular units are MUCH better than stock and will get you down the track straight and solid. I have pulled 1.51 60's with the cheapest BMR stuff out there (LCAs and TA only, all other suspension was stock). And my RW is 3600lbs.

So here is my list for you providing your rear is square.

Tubular LCAs
Fixed TA (well it may be a good idea to invest in a tunnel mount unit as a trans mount unit is not good for the tail shaft. If you know a welder they may be able to fab a mount into the trans cross member. That is my plan. Or maybe just get a new trans X-member with TA mount)
Drag shocks (Competition Engineering C2700s will do fine. I will be picking up a set of these this winter)