front strut replacement
Its not that hard, me and my friend did it on his TA. It does help if you have some automotive knowledge. Here's a link on how to do it http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6
Good Luck
Good Luck
I am far from a mechanic and i could do it in about 30 mins.It will take you just as long to jack the car up and take the tires off of it as it will to change the struts.It's no problem just take your time and remember what you took off and where,and you should be fine.
The hard part is swapping the springs over. I'd recommend taking that to a shop. The rest is easy. I took my struts to Napa to have the top plate changed over to my new struts with lowering springs. Cost me $27 to have them do it. WELL worth the money.
On the tree
Joined: May 2004
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It took me maybe 30 minutes per side including swapping the springs over. As long as the top plate retaining nut is not rusted to the shaft it is an easy task.
Jack car up and remove wheels.
Loosen and pull the brake mastercylinder to the side, it will move without hurting anything.
Loosen all 4 bolts that hold the upper mounts to the car, remove only 3 at this time.
Loosen sway bar endlinks and remove the endlink.
Loosen bottom two bolts to the strut and remove bolts.
Loosen upper A arm to spindle bolt, use a hammer and hit the side of the knuckle and the Aarm will seperate from the spindle. Use a piece of string to keep the spindle from dangling so it does not damage the brake line.
Now remove the last bolt on the top and then remove the strut assembly.
Rent a spring compressor and compress the spring from to opposite sides of the spring.
Look at top retaining nut, pray it is ok. If it is spray some penetrant on it to ease removal. If it is rusted bang head on wall and start with 6 pack of beer. one of mine was perfect the other nut looked like it had been sitting on the ocean floor for years. It took me about 30 minutes with a dremel to cut the top of strut shaft off so I could section the nut into 4 piece and then I used a cold chisel to chisel the nut off. Then use a rubber mallet to work the upper mount off of the strut.
Once you get to this point everything is exact opposite of removal. Do one side at a time so you can use the other side for reference if you need to. Dont forget to check everything over twice before you call it good and road test the new struts.
Jack car up and remove wheels.
Loosen and pull the brake mastercylinder to the side, it will move without hurting anything.
Loosen all 4 bolts that hold the upper mounts to the car, remove only 3 at this time.
Loosen sway bar endlinks and remove the endlink.
Loosen bottom two bolts to the strut and remove bolts.
Loosen upper A arm to spindle bolt, use a hammer and hit the side of the knuckle and the Aarm will seperate from the spindle. Use a piece of string to keep the spindle from dangling so it does not damage the brake line.
Now remove the last bolt on the top and then remove the strut assembly.
Rent a spring compressor and compress the spring from to opposite sides of the spring.
Look at top retaining nut, pray it is ok. If it is spray some penetrant on it to ease removal. If it is rusted bang head on wall and start with 6 pack of beer. one of mine was perfect the other nut looked like it had been sitting on the ocean floor for years. It took me about 30 minutes with a dremel to cut the top of strut shaft off so I could section the nut into 4 piece and then I used a cold chisel to chisel the nut off. Then use a rubber mallet to work the upper mount off of the strut.
Once you get to this point everything is exact opposite of removal. Do one side at a time so you can use the other side for reference if you need to. Dont forget to check everything over twice before you call it good and road test the new struts.
