Which drop spring most comfortable?
01-30-2007, 01:23 PM
#1
Which drop spring most comfortable? Im going for mostly looks - but also comfort, which drop spring will be the most comfortable? Im going w/ Bilstein HD non revalved. Looking for any drop between 1-2 inches
01-30-2007, 01:30 PM
#2
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I had the eibach pro-kitin mine and they rode good as well as look good.I think they lower the car 1.3 in the front and 1.5 in the back.I theink they are the best way to go.
01-30-2007, 01:42 PM
#3
Actually. . . before you go buying them look into BMR springs. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodySuspension.htm
I asked a similar question and got that BMR > Eibach because people say that Eibach have a "harsh" ride. I am looking into swapping out shocks + springs too so I am probably going to go with BMR over Eibach.
I asked a similar question and got that BMR > Eibach because people say that Eibach have a "harsh" ride. I am looking into swapping out shocks + springs too so I am probably going to go with BMR over Eibach.
01-30-2007, 01:56 PM
#4
None.... HD's not Revalved are NOT valved for, don't have the damping needed to control lowering springs. And shocks are a key for a decent ride, much more so than the spring rate to a point.
That said, I prefer a spring who's rates are known at all point thoughout the range of travel which is only able to be done with a linear rate spring. Also I believe in not making the springs any stiffer than is necessary. Strano Performance rear springs are 150 pounds linear.... softer than a lot of of other lowering springs are, but 25% stiffer than stock springs because you need to up the rate to compensate for the lesser travel. If you go stiffer than needed you end up with the "empty pick-up truck" action over bumps.
Eibach's rates would be fine if the springs weren't so low, and most sets lower the car more than the claimed 1.2". But they tend to end too low for the rates used. BMR's are hugely progressive so you never *truly* know where you are in terms of spring rate at any given point other than fully crushed, and their rears basically start out as stiff as my rears ever are, and only get stiffer. I mean 310-550 which is a 45% change in spring rate though the travel. Shocks are spring dampers, and the shock doesn't know that's happening (because unlike springs which are displacement sensitive, shocks are velocity dependent).
And my spring set weighs about 12-13 less than any of those springs too. Made of a different alloy (that most Nextel Cup teams are using also). Easy way to shave some weight since you want to change springs anyway.... and a lot cheaper than a k-member or control arms!
That said, I prefer a spring who's rates are known at all point thoughout the range of travel which is only able to be done with a linear rate spring. Also I believe in not making the springs any stiffer than is necessary. Strano Performance rear springs are 150 pounds linear.... softer than a lot of of other lowering springs are, but 25% stiffer than stock springs because you need to up the rate to compensate for the lesser travel. If you go stiffer than needed you end up with the "empty pick-up truck" action over bumps.
Eibach's rates would be fine if the springs weren't so low, and most sets lower the car more than the claimed 1.2". But they tend to end too low for the rates used. BMR's are hugely progressive so you never *truly* know where you are in terms of spring rate at any given point other than fully crushed, and their rears basically start out as stiff as my rears ever are, and only get stiffer. I mean 310-550 which is a 45% change in spring rate though the travel. Shocks are spring dampers, and the shock doesn't know that's happening (because unlike springs which are displacement sensitive, shocks are velocity dependent).
And my spring set weighs about 12-13 less than any of those springs too. Made of a different alloy (that most Nextel Cup teams are using also). Easy way to shave some weight since you want to change springs anyway.... and a lot cheaper than a k-member or control arms!
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01-30-2007, 03:05 PM
#7
I can't or more correctly won't disparage the BMR springs. I obviously felt there were better way to do things or else I wouldn't have commissioned my springs in the first place. QA1 shocks on the other hand, they are crappy dampers.
I'm happy to discuss exactly what I think (and more importantly why), but I really can't do a good job of it by e-mail or PM's, etc. But you should feel 100% free to call me on my techical info line 814-849-3450, and I'll answer whatever you want. And I'm very straightforward. I'll tell you already that I'd sooner run BMR springs than QA1 shocks, but I think you can do better on both counts.
I'm happy to discuss exactly what I think (and more importantly why), but I really can't do a good job of it by e-mail or PM's, etc. But you should feel 100% free to call me on my techical info line 814-849-3450, and I'll answer whatever you want. And I'm very straightforward. I'll tell you already that I'd sooner run BMR springs than QA1 shocks, but I think you can do better on both counts.
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01-30-2007, 07:11 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Sam Strano
None.... HD's not Revalved are NOT valved for, don't have the damping needed to control lowering springs. And shocks are a key for a decent ride, much more so than the spring rate to a point.
That said, I prefer a spring who's rates are known at all point thoughout the range of travel which is only able to be done with a linear rate spring. Also I believe in not making the springs any stiffer than is necessary. Strano Performance rear springs are 150 pounds linear.... softer than a lot of of other lowering springs are, but 25% stiffer than stock springs because you need to up the rate to compensate for the lesser travel. If you go stiffer than needed you end up with the "empty pick-up truck" action over bumps.
Eibach's rates would be fine if the springs weren't so low, and most sets lower the car more than the claimed 1.2". But they tend to end too low for the rates used. BMR's are hugely progressive so you never *truly* know where you are in terms of spring rate at any given point other than fully crushed, and their rears basically start out as stiff as my rears ever are, and only get stiffer. I mean 310-550 which is a 45% change in spring rate though the travel. Shocks are spring dampers, and the shock doesn't know that's happening (because unlike springs which are displacement sensitive, shocks are velocity dependent).
And my spring set weighs about 12-13 less than any of those springs too. Made of a different alloy (that most Nextel Cup teams are using also). Easy way to shave some weight since you want to change springs anyway.... and a lot cheaper than a k-member or control arms!
That said, I prefer a spring who's rates are known at all point thoughout the range of travel which is only able to be done with a linear rate spring. Also I believe in not making the springs any stiffer than is necessary. Strano Performance rear springs are 150 pounds linear.... softer than a lot of of other lowering springs are, but 25% stiffer than stock springs because you need to up the rate to compensate for the lesser travel. If you go stiffer than needed you end up with the "empty pick-up truck" action over bumps.
Eibach's rates would be fine if the springs weren't so low, and most sets lower the car more than the claimed 1.2". But they tend to end too low for the rates used. BMR's are hugely progressive so you never *truly* know where you are in terms of spring rate at any given point other than fully crushed, and their rears basically start out as stiff as my rears ever are, and only get stiffer. I mean 310-550 which is a 45% change in spring rate though the travel. Shocks are spring dampers, and the shock doesn't know that's happening (because unlike springs which are displacement sensitive, shocks are velocity dependent).
And my spring set weighs about 12-13 less than any of those springs too. Made of a different alloy (that most Nextel Cup teams are using also). Easy way to shave some weight since you want to change springs anyway.... and a lot cheaper than a k-member or control arms!
01-30-2007, 07:22 PM
#9
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go to stranoparts.com to find out.
I believe they are aprox. 1.2" drop on most cars.
I'm thinking of getting them myself.
I believe they are aprox. 1.2" drop on most cars.
I'm thinking of getting them myself.
Last edited by Greggy; 01-30-2007 at 07:23 PM. Reason: addition
01-31-2007, 10:55 AM
#11
The drop is about 1.2-1.25". Revalves are the minimum shock you should use IMHO. AGX's can damp them but ride not very well in doing so. Spring rate is too high for normal HD's, SLP's, QA1's, stock shocks, etc.
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01-31-2007, 11:49 AM
#13
Koni front, Bilstein rear only saves you about $40 in total vs. Koni's using the 3rd gen rears which have adjustment (just not as much as the more expensive 4th gen rears). Koni's aren't cheap. A set of "4/3's" is $725.
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01-31-2007, 12:23 PM
#15
Revalves are $530/set. No lifetime warranty on Revalves since we change the OE damping. But Bilstein's shop does it for me (to my specs) and I've never had one fail. Koni's do have a liftetime warranty to the original owner.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
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01-31-2007, 01:30 PM
#17
cause im thinking maybe.. instead of revalves + springs, maybe koni on lower perch? which would handle/drive better? Revalves + your springs or stock springs + koni lower perch? In the end same price...
01-31-2007, 01:55 PM
#18
A very popular option......... Different than Revalves and lowering springs, not better or worse. The car will handle quite well with Koni's and stock springs--the shocks are the biggest issue with the cars. Not that springs are useless or don't help handling, but they do different things.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
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Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
01-31-2007, 02:03 PM
#19
I currently have 20 inch rims which are more than likely going to get swapped out to 18's, unless they really grow on me, would the konis fill the gap the car has right now? or would the strano fill it better ? im thinking maybe go with konis and later down the road just get the springs.... 740 huh? hmm..
