ROTOR Question
ROTOR Question What is the best type of rotor, I have heard the drilled and slotted are awesome but then I was told that drilled rotors are more like to break or have pieces break off because they weaken the rotor by having holes in them, also Baer prices are outrageous brembo seem more reasonable and I was told that there are a new type that are only 180 for a front and rear set and they come either drilled, slotted, or both any help or prefrences welcome
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/353903-brake-faq.htmlRead the stickies, search, then ask. Best overall stopping will be plain rotors. Embellishments like slots and holes are just decorative, and serve no performance enhancement. Baer, Wilwood, and other big brake kits will greatly improve braking, but are not for everybody.
General consensus - get some good blanks, upgraded pads (like Hawks), stainless lines, and better fluid. All this can be done under $500.
General consensus - get some good blanks, upgraded pads (like Hawks), stainless lines, and better fluid. All this can be done under $500.
Brembo's are by far the best replacement rotor. Tough, cost-effective. A set is just about $260 (not including shipping). There are cheaper ones, which are cheaper for reasons. Less metal, not as good a metal (lets face it that's the key to having a lasting rotor that's warp resistant), poor castings with a lot of flash which mess with airflow.....
I sell more Brembo's than anything else, because they just flat work. I also have a more economy line which are lighter and aren't junk. But when you pound them you can feel a bit of a shake start, but it goes away when they cool a bit. Junk rotors just warp for good. The Economy line saves you about $75 or so vs. Brembo's. When you see the drilled and slotted stuff for the $180 range. They are cheap rotors (really cheap) that are then modified with the drilling and slotting, both of which weaken the structure of the rotor. I'll pass on a rotor that's been cut on, and wasn't as good as others before it was touched. And FWIW, I like swept area. Every slot or hole is a place where the pad can't generate friction, and that's what stops the car.
I sell more Brembo's than anything else, because they just flat work. I also have a more economy line which are lighter and aren't junk. But when you pound them you can feel a bit of a shake start, but it goes away when they cool a bit. Junk rotors just warp for good. The Economy line saves you about $75 or so vs. Brembo's. When you see the drilled and slotted stuff for the $180 range. They are cheap rotors (really cheap) that are then modified with the drilling and slotting, both of which weaken the structure of the rotor. I'll pass on a rotor that's been cut on, and wasn't as good as others before it was touched. And FWIW, I like swept area. Every slot or hole is a place where the pad can't generate friction, and that's what stops the car.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
