Should Rear Spring Perches Be Parallel to the Ground?
A few years ago, my brother crashed the left side of my car into a curb sideways.
After I got it back from the body shop, the left side is slightly lower than the right, kinda the opposite of the 'infamous f-body passenger side lean'.
I got under the car and it seems like the drivers side perch is angled slightly down while the passengers side perch is parallel to the ground.
Is there any negative to having a slightly angled perch? Like the spring slipping off?
If there is no danger, can I do the hose mod on the passengers side to level it out, or possibly weld a wedge onto the perch to bring it up a tiny bit?
I have a feeling it takes a 30 ton press to push the axle tubes into the diff housing, so taking the ube off and 're-aligning' it is probably out of the question especially if the rear has to come out...
A few years ago, my brother crashed the left side of my car into a curb sideways.
After I got it back from the body shop, the left side is slightly lower than the right, kinda the opposite of the 'infamous f-body passenger side lean'.
I got under the car and it seems like the drivers side perch is angled slightly down while the passengers side perch is parallel to the ground.
Is there any negative to having a slightly angled perch? Like the spring slipping off?
If there is no danger, can I do the hose mod on the passengers side to level it out, or possibly weld a wedge onto the perch to bring it up a tiny bit?
How far off are the perches? And much lean does the car actually have? I can't imagine the perch that is "angled slightly down" will make a huge difference in the ride height on one side.
More Q's: Did the body shop have the rear axle out of the car to work on it? Does the perch look like it was repaired/welded by the body shop?
I think doing the hose-mod on one side might bring it down too much, or is that far off? The installed height of the spring will remain the same, so I don't see how it could affect your handling adversely if you level-out your car using this method.
Have you tried reorienting the rear springs? Another thing I just thought of is that the isolator is not oriented properly on top of the spring. The tail-end of the spring should sit all the way in the isloator, and maybe the body shop didn't put them back in correctly?
I was not there for the whole(and very long and drawn out) repair process, but it does have a Unitrax metal tag on it, so I would assume it was out of the car and sent to the other shop...
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