Suspension critique
05-31-2007, 05:42 PM
#1
Suspension critique Alright the straight line performance is pretty much where I want it (without spending alot more money)
So it's time to make the bird ride/handle/brake better
Here's what I was thinking of getting
Strano 35/22 sway bars
4 Koni SA shocks
4 Brembo blanks with HPS pads all around
and a good alignment (anyone got specs they could share)
Retaining the stock springs, and the only lowering to be the lower perch and heater hose mod
So how does that sound to the suspension gurus
I'm not looking for the ultimate corner carver, nor to enter any auto X, just want a good handling, good braking car that can hold its own in the corners (what few there are out here on the plains)
Suggestions, comments, are all welcome
So it's time to make the bird ride/handle/brake better
Here's what I was thinking of getting
Strano 35/22 sway bars
4 Koni SA shocks
4 Brembo blanks with HPS pads all around
and a good alignment (anyone got specs they could share)
Retaining the stock springs, and the only lowering to be the lower perch and heater hose mod
So how does that sound to the suspension gurus
I'm not looking for the ultimate corner carver, nor to enter any auto X, just want a good handling, good braking car that can hold its own in the corners (what few there are out here on the plains)
Suggestions, comments, are all welcome
05-31-2007, 10:21 PM
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Janesville WI
Posts: 1,155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like a good plan 2 me!! 
Only thing I would add (if u don't already have it) is a quality adjustable PHB.
I run this very combo and (high speed) auto-x it w some success!
As far as alignment I run:
ZERO toe
-1.5 camber (you may want to run slightly less for optimal tire wear, but this makes for hard cornering) Also, some cars cannot reach this-get as much as you can so both sides r even.
4.5 degrees caster (no real downside, but harder steering)
Also here is a helpful link if you do not already have it:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fastcar/suspension.html
Only thing I would add (if u don't already have it) is a quality adjustable PHB.
I run this very combo and (high speed) auto-x it w some success!
As far as alignment I run:
ZERO toe
-1.5 camber (you may want to run slightly less for optimal tire wear, but this makes for hard cornering) Also, some cars cannot reach this-get as much as you can so both sides r even.
4.5 degrees caster (no real downside, but harder steering)
Also here is a helpful link if you do not already have it:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fastcar/suspension.html
05-31-2007, 10:29 PM
#3
Copy & Paste Moderator
Originally Posted by 2K2WS6TA
and a good alignment (anyone got specs they could share)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....38&postcount=3
06-01-2007, 04:23 AM
#4
the parts you're considering are mostly what i'm looking to do also....i'm gonna go with the Koni 4/4 SA's, stock springs (with the lower front perch/rear hose mod for lowering)....but i'll probably end up getting a C5 or C6 brake upgrade kit (after i replace the stock 16" wheels), and i've already got the Hotchkis sway bar kit, rather than the Strano kit.
but yes, definitely get an adjustable PHR, so you can center the rear once it's lowered, preferably one with at least one rod-end on it. i wouldn't use an adjustable one without the rod-ends, like the one BMR sells.....it uses poly/poly, and has an adjuster in the middle, with regular threads on one side and reverse threads on the other. while that may make it easy to adjust on-car, it still uses poly on both sides, which will limit the articulation, causing the bushings to bind when cornering over bumps. still better than stock, but not as good as having at least one rod-end.
but yes, definitely get an adjustable PHR, so you can center the rear once it's lowered, preferably one with at least one rod-end on it. i wouldn't use an adjustable one without the rod-ends, like the one BMR sells.....it uses poly/poly, and has an adjuster in the middle, with regular threads on one side and reverse threads on the other. while that may make it easy to adjust on-car, it still uses poly on both sides, which will limit the articulation, causing the bushings to bind when cornering over bumps. still better than stock, but not as good as having at least one rod-end.