spring rates
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Any sites that have all the springs avail with the spring rates? I'm looking for a drop around an inch but a spring rate as close to stock as possible. I do take the car to the track so dont want a really stiff spring. Also at what drop do i have to add other suspension components to have a good allignment etc.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
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Manufacturer Model Front (lbs/in) Rear (lbs/in) Ride Height Drop (in.)
OEM GM V6 93-97 223 95.4 0.00"
OEM GM V8 93-97 310 110 0.00"
OEM GM V6 98-02 257 114 0.00"
OEM GM V8 98-02 292 114 0.00"
1LE GM 1LE 360 130-180 0.00"
Eibach V6 Prokit 93-97 337 75-135 1.00"
Eibach V8 Prokit 93-97 377-600 94-160 1.30"
Eibach V6 Prokit 98-02 351 80-137 1.40"
Eibach V8 Prokit 98-02 400 80-137 1.25"
Eibach Sportline 360 80-137 1.6" / 1.4"
Hotchkis Fbody Springs 285-525 100-140 1.00"
G2 Super Springs 548 180-230 1.50"
Hyperco Hypercoils Fbody Springs 360-580 168-216 1.25"
MAC Fbody Springs 450-515 215-245 1.50"
SLP Level 1 Progressive 223-448 97-136 0.75"
SLP Level 2 Progressive 300-450 115-185 0.50"
BMR Fbody Springs 310-550 145-170 1.00"
Suspension Techniques Fbody Springs 428 161 1.30" / 1.70"
Edelbrock Fbody Springs 585 120-150 1.25"
DMS Springs LS1 98-02 325-630 95-160 1.30"
That the beef of it copied...but its much easier to follow on the site.
OEM GM V6 93-97 223 95.4 0.00"
OEM GM V8 93-97 310 110 0.00"
OEM GM V6 98-02 257 114 0.00"
OEM GM V8 98-02 292 114 0.00"
1LE GM 1LE 360 130-180 0.00"
Eibach V6 Prokit 93-97 337 75-135 1.00"
Eibach V8 Prokit 93-97 377-600 94-160 1.30"
Eibach V6 Prokit 98-02 351 80-137 1.40"
Eibach V8 Prokit 98-02 400 80-137 1.25"
Eibach Sportline 360 80-137 1.6" / 1.4"
Hotchkis Fbody Springs 285-525 100-140 1.00"
G2 Super Springs 548 180-230 1.50"
Hyperco Hypercoils Fbody Springs 360-580 168-216 1.25"
MAC Fbody Springs 450-515 215-245 1.50"
SLP Level 1 Progressive 223-448 97-136 0.75"
SLP Level 2 Progressive 300-450 115-185 0.50"
BMR Fbody Springs 310-550 145-170 1.00"
Suspension Techniques Fbody Springs 428 161 1.30" / 1.70"
Edelbrock Fbody Springs 585 120-150 1.25"
DMS Springs LS1 98-02 325-630 95-160 1.30"
That the beef of it copied...but its much easier to follow on the site.
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Originally Posted by DuronClocker
Strano's version of them are 550 front and 150 rear, 1.2" drop.
The ride with them and Konis is amazingly smooth. Feels better than my stock springs did on my Konis.
The ride with them and Konis is amazingly smooth. Feels better than my stock springs did on my Konis.
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Where'd you hear that? I mean, any lowering spring isn't as good as a drag spring, or even a stock spring for drag racing and weight transfer, but there are people cutting good 60's on these springs/shocks.
Some guy is cutting 1.5s! He's got a ton of power, but to be cutting times like that, the suspension is definitely allowing those tires to hook.
EDIT: I'm an idiot and realized I didn't have the springs on yet, so I've removed my track experiences. Haven't been to the track since the spring install, not sure how traction was affected yet.
Some guy is cutting 1.5s! He's got a ton of power, but to be cutting times like that, the suspension is definitely allowing those tires to hook.
EDIT: I'm an idiot and realized I didn't have the springs on yet, so I've removed my track experiences. Haven't been to the track since the spring install, not sure how traction was affected yet.
Last edited by DuronClocker; 06-29-2007 at 12:14 AM.
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The Strano spring are great on the road or at the track. Way better than the old Eibach springs I had on my car before. Much smoother on the road and easier to get out of the hole at the track. BTW I currently have Bilstein revalves and just ordered a set of Koni 4/4. Cant wait to get the Konis installed.
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I know it's an old thread, but I'm suprised no one mentioned Koni's wtih stock springs on the lower perch in front and the rear isolator delete. It's not an inch, but it's close, and you are at stock springrate
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#13
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Vogtland's production springs are very, very different from what I have them make for me. Their fronts are softer, the rears are significantly stiffer, and the whole set weighs more because the windings use more material.
Clearly you are thinking of some drag racing. The truth is that lowering springs are not ideal for launching. But if you are going to do some, the softer and "less low" the springs are the better for weight transfer. Because autocrossing is done in mostly 2nd gear while turning putting power down is very important. That's one reason (not the only one) that my rear springs aren't super stiff. And because we have to deal with bumps vs. perfect surfaces, that's why my springs aren't "slammed", so we can deal with road imperfections as best we can with a solid axle.
I think mine are among the best springs for launching simply because of how I came up with the specs and how I use my car. However there are some others I sell and could consider. Some are very similar in rate, some aren't. Some are similar in height, but not rate, etc. Happy to discuss options, but the truth is the stock springs are the best launching springs next to actual drag springs. So, you have to decide what's important to you. Lowering, handling, ride, launching, and in what order it's important to you.
Clearly you are thinking of some drag racing. The truth is that lowering springs are not ideal for launching. But if you are going to do some, the softer and "less low" the springs are the better for weight transfer. Because autocrossing is done in mostly 2nd gear while turning putting power down is very important. That's one reason (not the only one) that my rear springs aren't super stiff. And because we have to deal with bumps vs. perfect surfaces, that's why my springs aren't "slammed", so we can deal with road imperfections as best we can with a solid axle.
I think mine are among the best springs for launching simply because of how I came up with the specs and how I use my car. However there are some others I sell and could consider. Some are very similar in rate, some aren't. Some are similar in height, but not rate, etc. Happy to discuss options, but the truth is the stock springs are the best launching springs next to actual drag springs. So, you have to decide what's important to you. Lowering, handling, ride, launching, and in what order it's important to you.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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Vogtland's production springs are very, very different from what I have them make for me. Their fronts are softer, the rears are significantly stiffer, and the whole set weighs more because the windings use more material.
Clearly you are thinking of some drag racing. The truth is that lowering springs are not ideal for launching. But if you are going to do some, the softer and "less low" the springs are the better for weight transfer. Because autocrossing is done in mostly 2nd gear while turning putting power down is very important. That's one reason (not the only one) that my rear springs aren't super stiff. And because we have to deal with bumps vs. perfect surfaces, that's why my springs aren't "slammed", so we can deal with road imperfections as best we can with a solid axle.
I think mine are among the best springs for launching simply because of how I came up with the specs and how I use my car. However there are some others I sell and could consider. Some are very similar in rate, some aren't. Some are similar in height, but not rate, etc. Happy to discuss options, but the truth is the stock springs are the best launching springs next to actual drag springs. So, you have to decide what's important to you. Lowering, handling, ride, launching, and in what order it's important to you.
Clearly you are thinking of some drag racing. The truth is that lowering springs are not ideal for launching. But if you are going to do some, the softer and "less low" the springs are the better for weight transfer. Because autocrossing is done in mostly 2nd gear while turning putting power down is very important. That's one reason (not the only one) that my rear springs aren't super stiff. And because we have to deal with bumps vs. perfect surfaces, that's why my springs aren't "slammed", so we can deal with road imperfections as best we can with a solid axle.
I think mine are among the best springs for launching simply because of how I came up with the specs and how I use my car. However there are some others I sell and could consider. Some are very similar in rate, some aren't. Some are similar in height, but not rate, etc. Happy to discuss options, but the truth is the stock springs are the best launching springs next to actual drag springs. So, you have to decide what's important to you. Lowering, handling, ride, launching, and in what order it's important to you.
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Wow, talk about a blast from the past.... 14 years on. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Most won't tell you rates because internet setup guys will tell you "good, bad, etc" without knowing all the details. They don't understand wheel rates, bumpstop interactions and the like. The V-6 thing is not any big deal. Sure it has fewer cylinders than a V-8 but it is also all cast iron. LS1's are all aluminum with plastic intakes and LT1's are small blocks (smaller than an LS) in cast iron, but with aluminum heads and a very small intake manifold. Really there is not much functional weight difference from the engine, and less so if the car is an automatic.
I can help you with stuff, no sweat. And yes, I'm still here and doing it 14 years later.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Most won't tell you rates because internet setup guys will tell you "good, bad, etc" without knowing all the details. They don't understand wheel rates, bumpstop interactions and the like. The V-6 thing is not any big deal. Sure it has fewer cylinders than a V-8 but it is also all cast iron. LS1's are all aluminum with plastic intakes and LT1's are small blocks (smaller than an LS) in cast iron, but with aluminum heads and a very small intake manifold. Really there is not much functional weight difference from the engine, and less so if the car is an automatic.
I can help you with stuff, no sweat. And yes, I'm still here and doing it 14 years later.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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