Help with chassis and suspension
An offset c-moly lower control arm with rod ends, relocation brackets for the rear end, an anti roll bar, wolferacecraft makes a nice one, panhard bar any adjustable c-moly one will work fine.
If you have an iron block run 300# front springs, with an aluminum block run 275# springs, 150# rear springs, the QA1 or HAL "R" front drag shocks work great for drag racing and their 12 way single adjustable ones work great also, or you can run a 3 way adjustable shock from competition engineering thats pretty inexpensive, strange makes brakes for the front so you won't have to run a front spacer to clear 15" rims, You'll want subframe connectors that run through the floor, these are stronger than ones that just run under the car and tie in at the sub frames, also tie in the center of the car and where the rear lower control arms tie in.
There are a few places with k-members, for front control arms buy ones with the moly rod ends.
A manual rack will save weigh and also make the car faster, I picked up 0.2 tenths bypassing the power steering.
With an auto run a Mickey Thompson street radial, they work better with autos and have a softer compound than the ET Street tires and don't need as much of a burn out.
Wolfe racecraft has the nicest mail order roll cage I've come across for an f-body.
Solid motor mounts with a poly trans mount, drive shaft loop, 5 point harnesses and a good helmet which should fit snug.
Any other questions you can email me at christophermorales@hotmail.com and I'd be glad to help.

