And so it begins....
06-12-2003, 10:05 PM
#1
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And so it begins.... My project started today, and well, I didnt get very far!
Changes:
SLP 1LE swaybars (poly bushings/ends)
SLP subframe connectors
BMR tunnel brace
BMR panhard rod (poly/poly)
G2 race LCAs (poly/rod)
Done today:
BMR panhard rod
1 (yea, not both) G2 LCA
I feel like crap, I look like crap, and I smell like... well, marine grease actually. The panhard rod wasnt that big of a deal. Popped the old one out, and the new one in (with a crapload of slamming and banging) within an hour or so.
But the G2 LCAs are a BITCH to install. Too bad they are such a high quality LCA, or I would have just gotten the poly/poly BMR, lol. These LCAs are awesome. They are machined to almost infinate quality, like nothing Ive ever seen!
Ill keep ya updated on the end result!
(This buds for you Trackbird
)
Changes:
SLP 1LE swaybars (poly bushings/ends)
SLP subframe connectors
BMR tunnel brace
BMR panhard rod (poly/poly)
G2 race LCAs (poly/rod)
Done today:
BMR panhard rod
1 (yea, not both) G2 LCA
I feel like crap, I look like crap, and I smell like... well, marine grease actually. The panhard rod wasnt that big of a deal. Popped the old one out, and the new one in (with a crapload of slamming and banging) within an hour or so.
But the G2 LCAs are a BITCH to install. Too bad they are such a high quality LCA, or I would have just gotten the poly/poly BMR, lol. These LCAs are awesome. They are machined to almost infinate quality, like nothing Ive ever seen!
Ill keep ya updated on the end result!
(This buds for you Trackbird
) 
06-12-2003, 10:50 PM
#2
Re: And so it begins.... You have the body supported on jackstands and the axle is "hanging" when changing the LCA's and Panhard rod, right? It should be a fairly easy swap (usually not any banging, etc).
The subframes can be a little tricky, but just get the car up in the air (with the weight on the tires, use ramps in the front and jackstands under the rear axle) and line them up and bolt (or weld) them on. Mine took about 3-4 hours to get the car up, even, square and then welded. But I did them on a garage floor on stands (no lift)...and my assistant was drunk by the end of the first weld (and he drank all the beer while I had to stay sober to weld....bummer).
The tunnel brace, easy one....just change it while doing the connectors.
The sway bars. You will likely have to cut off the old endlinks (or they will just break when you try to remove them). Otherwise....the rear is easy. I think there is a splash shield in the front to deal with (haven't changed mine yet).
The rear shocks. Just set the body on jack stands and support the axle on stands (or a jack...carefully). Lay the rear seat down, and look for the perforated spot in the carpet just below both seat latches and gently tear it open, lift out the foam block and take the top bolts off. Make sure the axle is supported by something or it will hang by the brake lines when the bolts come out. Then just unbolt the bottom bolts and change the shocks (and springs if you were changing them) are easy to change together. Little trick...take the rear sway bar off (to get it out of the way, then change shocks, then add the new sway bar(I've done this a few times on friends cars...it is easier that way).
The front shocks, just remove the front tire, caliper (I support my caliper on the end of a 6 ton jack stand so it is not hanging by the brake line) and brake pads (they will fall on the floor and get greasy or damaged). Remove the 4 bolts on the shock mount under the hood (on the drivers side, remove the 2 bolts from the master cylinder flange, and "gently" pull the master cylinder forward enough to get the bolts out....it will move forward and there is enough room....and it just "drops" back into place when you are done). After removing the shock mounting bolts, just "stand" on the end of the lugs and pull the 2 studs out of the inner fender (disconnect the front sway bar first by unbolting the endlink) and the shock will drop straight down and swing out with the upper control arm on it. Just lift the control arm mount off the shock, spin it 90 degrees to get it out of the way and remove the 2 lower shock bolts and lift the spring and shock off of the lower A arm. Then change the spring and shock (with a spring compressor, DO NOT try to simply loosen the nut, it will go flying and you MAY get hurt). After the shock is changed (use anti sieze on the top bolt, they like to rust on top of the shock mount). Just bolt the bottom down, put the upper control arm mount over the studs and a "good, firm shove" will put the 2 studs back through the holes in the fender, bolt it down (and reconnect the sway bar) and put the master cylinder back.
Just some tips to make life easier....if you need me, you know how to get in touch. Good luck (and be careful!).
The subframes can be a little tricky, but just get the car up in the air (with the weight on the tires, use ramps in the front and jackstands under the rear axle) and line them up and bolt (or weld) them on. Mine took about 3-4 hours to get the car up, even, square and then welded. But I did them on a garage floor on stands (no lift)...and my assistant was drunk by the end of the first weld (and he drank all the beer while I had to stay sober to weld....bummer).
The tunnel brace, easy one....just change it while doing the connectors.
The sway bars. You will likely have to cut off the old endlinks (or they will just break when you try to remove them). Otherwise....the rear is easy. I think there is a splash shield in the front to deal with (haven't changed mine yet).
The rear shocks. Just set the body on jack stands and support the axle on stands (or a jack...carefully). Lay the rear seat down, and look for the perforated spot in the carpet just below both seat latches and gently tear it open, lift out the foam block and take the top bolts off. Make sure the axle is supported by something or it will hang by the brake lines when the bolts come out. Then just unbolt the bottom bolts and change the shocks (and springs if you were changing them) are easy to change together. Little trick...take the rear sway bar off (to get it out of the way, then change shocks, then add the new sway bar(I've done this a few times on friends cars...it is easier that way).
The front shocks, just remove the front tire, caliper (I support my caliper on the end of a 6 ton jack stand so it is not hanging by the brake line) and brake pads (they will fall on the floor and get greasy or damaged). Remove the 4 bolts on the shock mount under the hood (on the drivers side, remove the 2 bolts from the master cylinder flange, and "gently" pull the master cylinder forward enough to get the bolts out....it will move forward and there is enough room....and it just "drops" back into place when you are done). After removing the shock mounting bolts, just "stand" on the end of the lugs and pull the 2 studs out of the inner fender (disconnect the front sway bar first by unbolting the endlink) and the shock will drop straight down and swing out with the upper control arm on it. Just lift the control arm mount off the shock, spin it 90 degrees to get it out of the way and remove the 2 lower shock bolts and lift the spring and shock off of the lower A arm. Then change the spring and shock (with a spring compressor, DO NOT try to simply loosen the nut, it will go flying and you MAY get hurt). After the shock is changed (use anti sieze on the top bolt, they like to rust on top of the shock mount). Just bolt the bottom down, put the upper control arm mount over the studs and a "good, firm shove" will put the 2 studs back through the holes in the fender, bolt it down (and reconnect the sway bar) and put the master cylinder back.
Just some tips to make life easier....if you need me, you know how to get in touch. Good luck (and be careful!).
06-17-2003, 06:17 PM
#3
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Re: And so it begins.... So far Ive gotten the G2 LCAs, and the BMR panhard rod on. Very noticable improvement so far, with just those two (In a preliminary run, with one LCA loose as a goose, lol)!
Tonight I will be doing the SLP subframe connectors and front 1LE swaybar, and the BMR tunnel brace. Should be fun.
When I get the rear poly bushings (day after tomarrow), I'll put the rear 1LE swaybar on, and finally be done!
after that, the B-Quiet Brown Bread goes in, and the driver window motor/actuator gets its bolts, and Ill be back in the saddle again. Awaiting a progressive N2O controller. >
Tonight I will be doing the SLP subframe connectors and front 1LE swaybar, and the BMR tunnel brace. Should be fun.
When I get the rear poly bushings (day after tomarrow), I'll put the rear 1LE swaybar on, and finally be done!
after that, the B-Quiet Brown Bread goes in, and the driver window motor/actuator gets its bolts, and Ill be back in the saddle again. Awaiting a progressive N2O controller. >
