Which LCA's??????
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 78
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From: Memphis, Tenn
Which LCA's?????? I have a lowered 02 SS and looking for a set of LCA's. Car is mainly a street car with a little drag strip time. I am running drag radials. Car put down 420 rwhp/385 rwtq. Just curious to here some input on whether to go with boxed, non-ad tubular, single-ad tubular, or double-ad tubular. Also what brand and bolt in or weld relo's?
Depends on where you wanna go in the future. BMR, Spohn, UMI make some decent parts. I like adjustable stuff but they're a bit more $'s, and you'll most probably need them if you plan on taller tire for drag racing (not likely in your case unless you go wild in the near future). Double rod ends are just tooooooo rough on the street and are suited only for serious track racing but I believe there's a setup out there with poly bushings on both ends and an adjuster in the middle (I think Spohn). As for Boxed/tubular, I'm not too sure which is stiffer.
i build some great lca's for the double- adj. type. Chromemoly tube w/ Aurora teflon lined heims and aluminum spacers. powdercoated silver or black. the teflon lined heims make for very little noise in street applications. 200 shipped to you. pics available. also have weld in relocators.. this is the best way. bolt-ins have a tendency to move around. it doesn't take much of a weld to make these solid. pm me if interested.
I have a lowered 02 SS and looking for a set of LCA's. Car is mainly a street car with a little drag strip time. I am running drag radials. Car put down 420 rwhp/385 rwtq. Just curious to here some input on whether to go with boxed, non-ad tubular, single-ad tubular, or double-ad tubular. Also what brand and bolt in or weld relo's?
Based on your driving I would recommend just the basic non-adjustable set-up up with a set of relocation brackets. The control arms will help to eliminate the flex found in the stock control arms and reduce bushing deflection for improved traction. The relocation brackets are available bolt in or weld in and lower the rear of the control arm and work as a anti-squat bracket. When you lowered your car you altered the control arm angle and this is the main reason you may be seeing some traction loss. The relocation brackets bolt to the rear end and lower the control arm back to as if the vehcile was never lowered. This way you can lower the vehicle but still maintain the correct suspension geometry and instant center point.
Please take a look at the links below and if you have any questions please ask. This set-up would only cost you $199 for both items.
Control Arms- www.umiperformance.com/2015
Relocation Brackets- www.umiperformance.com/2012
Thank you!
Ryan
