quick relocation bracket ?
 

Well guys, I bought the bolt in LCA relocation brackets from RPM. Anyhow, they went in fine, and set the rear abit further back in the car. Now, the car doestn wheel hop anymore, which it did badly after I put the 4.10 gears in it. (car is an M6) But it seems the traction got worse with the brackets. First gear is totally worthless now, and second gear is all over the place. I have to peddle the car hard in first, and peddle it good in second to keep any sort of traction. My car isnt making insane power, as its a bolt on car only, full weight, stock ride height, and I even removed teh front sway bar to try and aid in transfer, and it didnt help traction at all either. So, the question, why the hell is it doing this??? And whats the advantage/disadvantage of using the lower hole, or the uper hole??? I currently have the LCA's in the lower most hole. i also boxed the stock LCA's, so they shouldnt be flexing near as much as stock. Thanks in advance

What tires are you on?

im on radials. I still have the 10 bolt with 4.10's, so didnt want to put DR's on it untill i can afford a rear. But still, I thought traction was supposed to get better with the brackets, not worse? Atleast it got rid of the wheel hop.

Well i kinda ran into the same issue w/ my street tires. I got nasty wheel hop/spinning etc. then i used the brackets and the hop went away, and the spinning dropped a bit, and i'm still on 3.42's. I still spin in first but nowhere near as much. With 4.10's on a street tire you are kinda screwed, that is too much gear for the tires/stock suspension.

If you look at the setup from the side, imagine that under throttle the rear axle is pushed forward. It is the LCA's that actually push the car forward. It is the angle of the arms that can push the axle down under acceleration or push the axle up. Now pushing it down and lifting the back of the car is what you want for good traction. The only down side is that the axle may lift under heavy braking.

before the LCA brackets were put in, your LCA's were pretty level to the ground, correct?

when you get on the throttle, the rear axle wants to move forward, and without the LCA's in place, it would do exactly that....only without the car moving forward with it (that would be bad). with the LCA's in place, the rear axle pushes against the LCA's, and the LCA's push against the car's body, causing it to move forward.

however, you can lose/gain traction multiple times per second because when the LCA's are level, they don't have any resistance to upward/downward motion, just forward/rear motion. when the LCA's start moving upward, it allows the tires to grip a little, because the rear end is allowed to move forward a little more than the body, since the LCA's are not able to push against the body. it can only go so far, though, and when it rebounds back into place, the wheel slips again. repeat this several times per second, and your wheels start hopping on/off the pavement.

when you change the angle of the LCA's from level to a downward angle (lower side at the axle), that keeps the LCA's from being able to pivot upwards whenever the tires start to grab, which reduces the wheel hop (this is good). the bad part is that if you are still on non-sticky street tires, instead of getting wheel hop, something else has to give, so the tires just keep spinning.

get some good sticky tires.

i noticed no traction gains compared to stock after i put on my relocation brackets. i suppose they can only help though..

01FbTaWs6, those stock rubber bushings are probably the reason why you didn't notice much change. They cause the rear axle to surge forward and snap back over and over. You need to get rid of that play.

witha set of aftermarket LCA's. Will do man, will order them up here next week.