Koni vs. Bilstein Write-up (long)
Front - Koni D/A's set 2 clicks softer than dead middle on both compression and rebound, 650# coilovers, 1LE bar
Rear - Koni D/A's set dead middle on compression and rebound, Hotchkis lowering springs, 1LE bar, Adj. Panhard bar.
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Wow, I don't have DA's, but that seems a bit stiff all around in the rear and soft in rebound in the front for 650#'s. Especially since you only have a 32mm front bar with a 21 rear. Do you have a heavy rear axle or something?
A little compliance is good for grip. Does she get loose alot?
So you are running 650 pound springs on the front? Wow, aren't 1LE springs 360 pounds for the front? Sammie springs are 500; right?
So this car does not ride like a 18-wheeler?
Anyway; why did you opt for the double adjustible Koni shocks? What does adjustible compression do anyway?
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
The car is actually surprisingly comfortable to ride in. I get a lot of feedback from road imperfections, but its very compliant and I do daily drive it most of the time. The rear has the Hotchkis lowering springs (150ish I think) and the rear shocks to need to be softened up a click or so, but the car feels good and the rear is planted. The car is setup quite well and everything really just works when Im up in the canyons. I probably could fine tune it a bit more, but its really good as it sits.
Sam is right, with a bigger bar and slightly softer springs, there would probably be more roll control, but my setup was CHEAP and very effective. I would say that my setup is probably close to par with Sams, giving the edge to him.
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
You could just lower the front bump (compression) setting down to 0 or 1 up from soft, no. That would help the ride out alot. Especially if those DA's are valved stiffer in both rebound and compression. But maybe they are re-valved softer on compression and firmer on rebound. Then that would make your settings understandable.
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What about going over bumps with super stiff springs; that must be jar your fillings; right?
You are correct though with your understanding. In most cases it would be better to control cornering roll forces with bigger bars and softer springs, especially for daily driving comfort. Im nuts though and thinking about going with a much stiffer front bar.
Both springs and bars add wheel rate. Springs always add it, bars don't. And many folks are under the mis-understanding that a small change in rate makes massive changes in pitch and roll when it really doesn't. When you are testing a race car, the rule is you make spring rate changes you make them in increments of at least 10% of rate because it's very hard to feel anything less. Also when you see one of these cars "diving" the majority of the movement is the rising, not the nose dropping, so big front springs don't do as much as you think to stop that.
There is no magic formula, there are differences. We all have preferences on how we do work. Some are 100% locked in, some aren't. I'm pretty set on my stuff, but will vary to different degrees with situations, realizing they are not all the same (but most are similar).
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Both springs and bars add wheel rate. Springs always add it, bars don't. And many folks are under the mis-understanding that a small change in rate makes massive changes in pitch and roll when it really doesn't. When you are testing a race car, the rule is you make spring rate changes you make them in increments of at least 10% of rate because it's very hard to feel anything less. Also when you see one of these cars "diving" the majority of the movement is the rising, not the nose dropping, so big front springs don't do as much as you think to stop that.
There is no magic formula, there are differences. We all have preferences on how we do work. Some are 100% locked in, some aren't. I'm pretty set on my stuff, but will vary to different degrees with situations, realizing they are not all the same (but most are similar).






