Rear control arms
Rear control arms My bushing are going out in my rear control arms and bothering the **** out of me. and i figure instead of wasting 40$ on some bushings,so im going to just order some new lower control arms from UMI Performance. If i plan on lowering my car in the future would it be in my best interest to get the adjustable ones or get just the standard? 
yea ill probably end up getting these
http://umiperformance.com/2016?category_id=119
instead of buying bushing for 40, ill spend the extra 160 and just do it right.
http://umiperformance.com/2016?category_id=119
instead of buying bushing for 40, ill spend the extra 160 and just do it right.
yea ill probably end up getting these
http://umiperformance.com/2016?category_id=119
instead of buying bushing for 40, ill spend the extra 160 and just do it right.
http://umiperformance.com/2016?category_id=119
instead of buying bushing for 40, ill spend the extra 160 and just do it right.
1. You're really doing some serious racing (either strip, or road course racing).
2. Your stock LCA's are really bent out of whack (very few I've seen are).
Really, I've replaced those stock worn "fluted" bushings with the Moog/1LE "solid" rubber bushings and actually for much of my AX and HPDE, they more than sufficed. I couldn't really tell the difference in performance and/or comfort between them and even double rod-ended aftermarket LCA's (until the rod-ends got worn, which I'll mention below).
With concerns to the rod-ends on those arms, they're definitely premium, but depending on climate and road conditions, they do wear out within 6 months to almost two years and when they do, they'll start to make a weird "baby-rattle" or "tin can filled with marbles" sound. At that point they'll be dangerous to drive on. Their cost will be about 29 USD for each. The poly bushings will also need to be kept greased, otherwise lots of bind will be introduced.
Another thing I should mention with the Poly/rod is that when it comes to adjusting thrust angle, the rod end's will need to be disconnected in order to adjust, which can take more time and a slight bit more headache. This is why I opted for my DIY "double-adjustible" with a modified "Howe" rubber bushing on one end, and a rod-end on the other.
With all that I've mentioned, I do prefer running rod-ends, even with a daily-driver and part-time track vehicle, but I just wanted to type out this experience since "there is no such thing as a free lunch" with mods like these.
yea ill probably end up getting these
http://umiperformance.com/2016?category_id=119
instead of buying bushing for 40, ill spend the extra 160 and just do it right.
http://umiperformance.com/2016?category_id=119
instead of buying bushing for 40, ill spend the extra 160 and just do it right.
.....don't forget the relocation brackets Trending Topics
yeah my bushings are gone. thats why i wanted to get new LCA's so i dont have to worry about buying bushings anymore. im probably going to get strano/koni in the future so it would be in my best interest to get the adjustable ones correct?
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Verdad Gallardo Yes, adjustable is the way to go, but you need the relocation brackets to get rid of wheelhop.
I installed the poly/rod adjustable LCA's and the bolt-in relocation brackets Friday. Easy job, and the car launches alot better now. No more wheel hop
I installed the poly/rod adjustable LCA's and the bolt-in relocation brackets Friday. Easy job, and the car launches alot better now. No more wheel hop
Since you already plan to get Strano springs and Koni's, you ought to give him a call and discuss your goals before doing aftermarket LCA's or even relocations brackets. And FWIW, I believe he's won most of his championships with stock LCA's refitted with the Moog/1LE bushings and no relocation brackets, but if you decide to buy those arms you mention, he's a UMI dealer himself, since he's established a solid business relationship with them.
And FWIW, you'll wear out the rod-ends on the LCA's way before you even wear out 1LE bushings in stock arms. Poly bushings don't last longer either since they not only need to be lubricated, but also suffer from creep, or what's sometimes referred to as "cold-flow" (the poly bushings become stretched and loosened over a period of time and usually need replacing as well). I speak this from complete experience as other's around who do AX and some who do HPDE, and these activities are several times rougher than most people drive on public roads.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Sweden
[QUOTE=Foxxtron;9515263]While those are some premium aftermarket arms, bear in mind that it's not necessarily an upgrade...
Well put about LCA but what is ..."DIY "double-adjustible" with a modified "Howe" rubber bushing on one end, and a rod-end on the other" Any picts?
Well put about LCA but what is ..."DIY "double-adjustible" with a modified "Howe" rubber bushing on one end, and a rod-end on the other" Any picts?
Relocation brackets can do more harm to handling than good. Many have lowered vehicles around here that don't use them because it can screw up their rear suspension geometry and really cause for some really whacky handling.
Since you already plan to get Strano springs and Koni's, you ought to give him a call and discuss your goals before doing aftermarket LCA's or even relocations brackets. And FWIW, I believe he's won most of his championships with stock LCA's refitted with the Moog/1LE bushings and no relocation brackets, but if you decide to buy those arms you mention, he's a UMI dealer himself, since he's established a solid business relationship with them.
And FWIW, you'll wear out the rod-ends on the LCA's way before you even wear out 1LE bushings in stock arms. Poly bushings don't last longer either since they not only need to be lubricated, but also suffer from creep, or what's sometimes referred to as "cold-flow" (the poly bushings become stretched and loosened over a period of time and usually need replacing as well). I speak this from complete experience as other's around who do AX and some who do HPDE, and these activities are several times rougher than most people drive on public roads.
Since you already plan to get Strano springs and Koni's, you ought to give him a call and discuss your goals before doing aftermarket LCA's or even relocations brackets. And FWIW, I believe he's won most of his championships with stock LCA's refitted with the Moog/1LE bushings and no relocation brackets, but if you decide to buy those arms you mention, he's a UMI dealer himself, since he's established a solid business relationship with them.
And FWIW, you'll wear out the rod-ends on the LCA's way before you even wear out 1LE bushings in stock arms. Poly bushings don't last longer either since they not only need to be lubricated, but also suffer from creep, or what's sometimes referred to as "cold-flow" (the poly bushings become stretched and loosened over a period of time and usually need replacing as well). I speak this from complete experience as other's around who do AX and some who do HPDE, and these activities are several times rougher than most people drive on public roads.
Yes. It's inherent in the rod-end and poly bushing design, but if it's rarely driver, then why spend all of that money for practically no noticable improvement in performance and a possible loss of ride quality? Remember, with these mods, "there is no such thing as a free lunch." It's a compromise that can be based upon personal preference, but it should never be considered a complete upgrade with no compromise.
Last edited by Foxxtron; Jun 9, 2008 at 05:39 AM.
This is where is got started, but there's more detail about it over at www.frrax.com.
You'll have to do an exhaustive search for it. Also, if you have apprehensions about using the pre-made T6-6061 arms, then you could opt for some mild steel versions from elsewhere. Just pay attention to the directions, and you can have some decent LCA's, though I still hold the opinion that the Moog/1LE is already quite enough.
Depends pretty much on who you get them from. They're usually in stock from most auto parts store, but they're usually sold under the "Moog chassis parts brand", TRW brand, NAPA auto parts brand, and several other, but they're exactly what the 1LE bushings are.
Here's an example of what they look like from another thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/842240-fbody-street-suspension-setup-review.html
Scroll through the thread to see Sam Strano's posts as he will comment that he runs them on his car and he'll also mention a price, though I'm not too sure if the price is still the same. He mentions that they're 55 USD, but I'm not too sure if that's for all four or not (I think they are but you ought to call him to be sure).
Here's a link to the Pic with the 1LE up top and the "fluted" old factory bushing at the bottom:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...lebushings.jpg
doesn't look like much of a difference but it's usually significant enough to improve the handling and rid a lot of wheel hop cases that's inherent with the "fluted" bushings.
Here's an example of what they look like from another thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/842240-fbody-street-suspension-setup-review.html
Scroll through the thread to see Sam Strano's posts as he will comment that he runs them on his car and he'll also mention a price, though I'm not too sure if the price is still the same. He mentions that they're 55 USD, but I'm not too sure if that's for all four or not (I think they are but you ought to call him to be sure).
Here's a link to the Pic with the 1LE up top and the "fluted" old factory bushing at the bottom:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...lebushings.jpg
doesn't look like much of a difference but it's usually significant enough to improve the handling and rid a lot of wheel hop cases that's inherent with the "fluted" bushings.
poly bushings can be a pain in the ***, but i wouldn't have it any other way.
i just keep a grease gun (with hose attachment) in my trunk. if my lca's start making noise, it takes about a minute to get them greased up again... now if only my swaybar mounts had zerk fittings.
i just keep a grease gun (with hose attachment) in my trunk. if my lca's start making noise, it takes about a minute to get them greased up again... now if only my swaybar mounts had zerk fittings.