6Gearss

Anyone have the parts numbers to bushing, boots, tie rods, etc., for 4th Gens? I did a search and came up with all kinds of brands.

What is the best brand outside of ES? Moog?

I'm trying to bring it back right, and tight. Thanks.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

personally, if i had let my car get sloppy, i'd just replace the parts with aftermarket performance parts....hell, i'm doing that anyway, even if the stock parts are not really "worn out". if your LCA bushings are worn out, just get new LCA's. if your a-arm bushings/ball joints are worn out, get new a-arms. etc., etc.

as for tie rods & such, there's not really going to be much difference...it's all metal.

and one of the main things that affects suspension is the shocks....get those replaced with some really good ones, not just stock replacements, and you'll be surprised at the difference it will make.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Ouch! I'm going to have to respectfully disagree that it's not always wise to replace with aftermarket performance parts. Almost every upper front control arms are unecessarily heavier than stock and if they have poly bushings, they'll add unnecessary bind "even when properly lubricated). With the exception of the LG lower control arms, almost all of them are substantially weaker than the stock arms, plus all of them have been a PIA to adjust. While it can be nice to reduce as much unsprung weight from our cars, some of these items actually add more weight, or if they do weigh less, they can fail miserably for street use. I mention this from personal experience with almost all that have been on the market. His sig also mentions some of the usual mods, including Koni SA's.

Now, here's some Moog numbers:

Front lower ball joint: K6145T
Front upper ball joint: K6462
Front UCA bushings: K6689
Front LCA bushings: K6490
Rear LCA bushings: K6178
Outer tie rod: ES3238RL
Inner tie rod: EV260

This is not yet a comprehensive list, however I mentioned the ones that are usually in great need to be replaced (I'll update by editing as I proceed). Now bear in mind that the most usual culprits needing replacement are, the rear and front LCA bushings, especially the front LCA caster bushing. I have seen lots of these torn and when they do, a significant amount of NVH gets through and alignment gets hard to manage.

While I'm at it, I'll list this item as well since it wears out easily, can contribute to "speed bump noises", is relatively cheap and easy to replace:

Walker brand exhaust mount insulator: part# 35460

The places where poly is very useful as a replacement are:

Front and rear swaybar body mount bushings
Front and rear swaybar endlinks
Motor mounts (PIA with concerns to labour, but can be useful)
Torque arm mounts.

And possibly other places where the additional bind and/or higher durometer is useful.

Again, it always pays to be cautious of how suspension is modified because many things advertised as upgrades can sometimes turn out to be compromises or complete downgrades.

6Gearss

Foxxtron,

Great reply, partner. I'm writing down the numbers right now.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

AMEN, brother. Been there, experienced that!!

Luder[PAK9]

First adding my thanks to foxxtron for those part numbers.

Second, does anyone know what Moog front and rear sway bar end links we're supposed to be using? They have Problem Solvers both "with" and "w/o" "HD suspension." I have an SS but not the 1LE option.